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VW Golf & Jetta Service and Repair Manual
I M Coomber and Christopher Rogers
Models covered VW Golf & Jetta Mk 2 models with petrol engines, including fuel injection, catalytic converter, Formel E, 16-valve and special/limited edition models 1043 cc, 1272 cc, 1595 cc & 1781 cc
Covers mechanical features of Van. Does not cover Convertible, Rallye, Caddy, diesel engine, 4 -wheel drive, Mk 1 models or new Golf range introduced in February 1992 (1081 - 344 - 1AA11)
© Haynes Publishing 1997
ABCDE FGHIJ KLMNO PQRST 123
Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Haynes Publishing Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA Editions Haynes S.A. 147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB Fyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige
A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.
ISBN 1 85960 282 7
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
Contents
LIVING WITH YOUR VOLKSWAGEN GOLF OR JETTA
Introduction Safety First! Page Page 0·4 0·5
Roadside Repairs
Introduction If your car won't start Jump starting Wheel changing Identifying leaks Towing Page Page Page Page Page Page 0·6 0·6 0·7 0·8 0·9 0·9
Weekly Checks
Introduction Underbonnet check points Engine oil level Coolant level Brake fluid level Power steering fluid level Screen/headlamp washer fluid level Wiper blades Tyre condition and pressure Battery Electrical systems Page 0·10 Page 0·10 Page 0·11 Page 0·11 Page 0·12 Page 0·12 Page 0·13 Page 0·13 Page 0·14 Page 0·15 Page 0·15
Lubricants and fluids Capacities and tyre pressures
Page 0·16 Page 0·17
MAINTENANCE
Routine Maintenance and Servicing
Servicing specifications Maintenance schedule: Vehicles manufactured before August 1985 Vehicles manufactured after August 1985 Maintenance - component location Maintenance procedures Page Page Page 1·5 1·6 1·7 Page 1·2
Page 1·10
Contents
REPAIRS & OVERHAUL
Engine and Associated Systems
Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre - pre August 1985 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre - post August 1985 Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve Engine repair procedures - 1.8 litre 16 valve Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models Fuel and exhaust systems - K-Jetronic fuel injection - 8 valve engines Fuel and exhaust systems - K-Jetronic fuel injection - 16 valve engines Fuel and exhaust systems - Mono Jetronic fuel injection Fuel and exhaust systems - Digijet fuel injection Fuel and exhaust systems - Digifant fuel injection Ignition system - contact breaker type Ignition system - transistorised type Ignition system - fully electronic type Starting and charging systems Page 2A·1 Page 2B·1 Page 2C·1 Page 2D·1 Page 3·1 Page 4A·1 Page 4B·1 Page 4C·1 Page 4D·1 Page 4E·1 Page 4F·1 Page 5A·1 Page 5B·1 Page 5C·1 Page 5D·1
Transmission
Clutch Manual gearbox Automatic transmission Driveshafts Page 6·1 Page 7A·1 Page 7B·1 Page 8·1
Brakes and Suspension
Braking system Suspension and steering Page 9·1 Page 10·1
Body Equipment
Bodywork and fittings Body electrical systems Page 11·1 Page 12·1 Page 12·17
Wiring Diagrams
REFERENCE
Dimensions and Weights Conversion Factors Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification General Repair Procedures Jacking and Vehicle Support Tools and Working Facilities MOT test checks Fault Finding Glossary of Technical Terms Page REF·1 Page REF·2 Page REF·3 Page REF·4 Page REF·5 Page REF·6 Page REF·8 Page REF·12 Page REF·20 Page REF·25
Index
0·4
Introduction
bucket tappets, the Digifant, Digijet and Mono-Jetronic fuel injection systems, the 16-valve engine fitted to the GTi variant, the fully electronic ignition system (FEI), the 085 5-speed gearbox and several other minor modifications and revisions. As with earlier models the new range is proving popular, giving economy, reliability, comfort and, if previous models can be used as a yardstick, long life.
The Mk. II Volkswagen Golf and Jetta range of models was introduced in March 1984, revised body and trim features being the main visual difference to the earlier range of models. The engine/transmission is mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle, drive being to the front wheels. Detailed improvements have been made throughout the years of manufacture to improve power output and economy. These include the introduction of hydraulic
VW Golf VW Jetta
The VW Golf & Jetta Team
Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The team responsible for the creation of this book included: Authors Sub-editors Editor & Page Make-up Workshop manager Photo Scans Ian Coomber Cristopher Rogers Carole Turk Sophie Yar Steve Churchill Paul Buckland John Martin Paul Tanswell Steve Tanswell Cover illustration & Line Art Roger Healing
Your Volkswagen Golf and Jetta Manual
The aim of this Manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the Manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The Manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.
Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions, to Duckhams Oils, who provided lubrication data and also to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who supplied some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this Manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this Manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from the information given.
We hope the book will help you to get the maximum enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine maintenance as described you will ensure your car's reliability and preserve its resale value.
Safety first!
Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude. · Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.
0·5
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
· This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. · When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.
General hazards
Scalding
· Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. · Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.
Fume or gas intoxication
· Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. · Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Burning
· Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.
The battery
· Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. · The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.
Crushing
· When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps. Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack. · Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.
Poisonous or irritant substances
· Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. · Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. · Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.
Air bags
· Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
· Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.
Fire
· Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. · Don't let fuel spill onto a hot engine. · Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). · Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. · Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. · Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Asbestos
· Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Remember...
DO
· Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle. · Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary. · Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle. · Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. · Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle especially the electrical system. · Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.
A few tips
DON'T
· Don't attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability get assistance. · Don't rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. · Don't use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury. · Don't leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once. · Don't allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.
Electric shock
· Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don't work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.
0·6
Roadside repairs
The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.
If your car won't start and the starter motor doesn't turn
If it's a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector is in `P' or `N'. Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you're trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend's car.
If your car won't start even though the starter motor turns as normal
Is there fuel in the tank? Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads.
A
Check that the HT lead connections at the distributor are clean and make sure they are secure by pushing them onto the cap.
B
Check that the HT lead connections at the spark plugs are secure by pushing them onto the plugs.
C
Check that the LT lead connections are clean and secure.
D
Check the security and condition of the battery connections.
Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp
E
Wiring plugs may cause problems if dirty or not connected properly.
Roadside repairs
Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities: The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on. The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty). The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).
0·7
Jump starting
When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:
4 Before connecting the booster 4 Make sure that the booster battery is
1
the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.
4 If the battery is being jump-started
2 3
battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.
4 Ensure that all electrical equipment
from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.
4 Make sure that the transmission is in
(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.
neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).
1
Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery
2
Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.
3
Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery
4
Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started. Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.
5
6
Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.
0·8
Roadside repairs
Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.
Wheel changing
Some of the details shown here will vary according to model. For instance, the location of the spare wheel and jack is not the same on all cars. However, the basic principles apply to all vehicles.
Preparation
When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it is safe to do so. Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. Use hazard warning lights if necessary. If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission. Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed a couple of large stones will do for this. If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack.
Changing the wheel
The spare wheels and tools are stored in the luggage compartment. Release the retaining strap and lift out the jack and tools from the centre of the wheel.
1
2
Unscrew the retaining nut and lift the wheel out of the vehicle.
Remove the wheel trim/hub cap from the wheel (some trims have retaining screws which must be undone first). Slacken each wheel bolt by half a turn.
3
Locate the jack below the reinforced point on the sill and on firm ground. Turn the jack handle to raise the car until the wheel is clear of the ground.
4
Unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel. Fit the spare wheel and screw in the wheel bolts. Lightly tighten them using the wheelbrace, then lower the car to the ground.
5
Once the car is on the ground, tighten the wheel bolts securely in a diagonal pattern using the wheelbrace. At the earliest possible opportunity, have the wheel bolts slackened and then tightened to the correct torque wrench setting.
6
Finally...
Remove the wheel chocks. Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car. Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don't have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure. Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible.
Roadside repairs
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies. Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.
0·9
Identifying leaks
The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what's leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil
Oil from filter
Gearbox oil
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...
...or from the base of the oil filter.
Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.
Antifreeze
Brake fluid
Power steering fluid
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.
Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.
Towing
When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: Use a proper tow-rope they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an `ON TOW' sign in its rear window. Always turn the ignition key to the `on' position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided. Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. On models with power steering, greaterthan-usual steering effort will also be required. The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions. On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result.
0·10
Weekly checks
Introduction
There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense. These "Weekly checks" require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example; Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life. Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these. If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem. If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.
Underbonnet check points
All models
(typical)
A B C D E F G
Engine oil level dipstick Engine oil filler cap Coolant expansion tank Brake fluid reservoir Power steering fluid reservoir Screen washer fluid reservoir Battery
Weekly checks
Engine oil level
Before you start
4 Make sure that your car is on level ground. 4 Check the oil level before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick!
0·11
1
The correct oil
Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (See "Lubricants, fluids and capacities").
The dipstick is located at the right-hand end of the engine (see "Underbonnet check points" on page 0·10 for exact location). Withdraw the dipstick.
2
Using a clean rag or paper towel remove all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again.
Car Care
l If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil (see "Fault Finding"). l Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil. Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the upper ("MAX") mark and lower ("MIN") mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.
3
4
Oil is added through the filler cap. Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Don't overfill (see "Car Care" left).
Coolant level
Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.
Car Care
l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary. l It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don't top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.
The coolant level varies with the temperature of the engine. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be between the MAX and MIN marks on the side of the expansion tank. When the engine is hot, the level may rise slightly.
1
2
If topping up is necessary, wait until the engine is cold. Slowly unscrew the expansion tank cap, to release any pressure present in the cooling system, and remove it.
3
Add the recommended mixture of water and antifreeze through the expansion tank filler neck, until the coolant is up to the MAX level mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go until it is secure.
0·12
Weekly checks
Warning: l Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it. l Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
Brake fluid level
1
· Make sure that your car is on level ground. · The fluid level in the reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be allowed to drop below the "MIN" mark.
The "MAX" and "MIN" marks are indicated on the front of the reservoir. The fluid level must be kept between the marks at all times.
2
If topping-up is necessary, first wipe clean the area around the filler cap to prevent dirt entering the hydraulic system.
Safety First!
l If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately. l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.
Unscrew the reservoir cap and carefully lift it out of position, taking care not to damage the level switch float. Inspect the reservoir, if the fluid is dirty the hydraulic system should be drained and refilled (see Chapter 1).
3
Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spill it onto the surrounding components. Use only the specified fluid; mixing different types can cause damage to the system. After topping-up to the correct level, securely refit the cap and wipe off any spilt fluid.
4
Power steering fluid level
Before you start:
4 Park the vehicle on level ground. 4 Set the steering wheel straight-ahead. 4 The engine should be turned off. For the check to be accurate, the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped.
Safety First!
l The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.
The fluid reservoir is mounted next to the battery in the engine compartment. "MAX" and "MIN" level marks are indicated on the side of the reservoir. The fluid level should be maintained between these marks at all times.
1
If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag before removing the cap. When adding fluid, pour it carefully into the reservoir to avoid spillage. Be sure to use only the specified fluid.
2
3
After filling the reservoir to the proper level, make sure that the cap is refitted securely to avoid leaks and the entry of foreign matter into the reservoir.
Weekly checks
Screen/headlamp washer fluid level
Screenwash additives not only keep the winscreen clean during foul weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don't top up using plain water as the screenwash will become too diluted, and will
0·13
freeze during cold weather. On no account use coolant antifreeze in the washer system this could discolour or damage paintwork.
The reservoir for the windscreen and headlamp washer systems is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment, forward of the suspension turret. The rear screen washer system reservoir is located on the right-hand side rear corner of the luggage compartment. Later systems have a single reservoir located in the engine compartment.
1
When topping-up the reservoir(s) a screenwash additive should be added in the quantities recommended on the bottle.
2
Check the operation of both screen and headlamp washers. Adjust the nozzles using a pin if necessary, aiming the spray to a point slightly above the centre of the swept area. a = 345 mm b = 420 mm c = 320 mm d = 300 mm
3
Wiper blades
Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should be renewed annually.
1
To remove a windscreen wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the screen until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, press the locking tab with your fingers and slide the blade out of the arm's hooked end.
2
Don't forget to check the tailgate wiper blade as well. To remove the blade, depress the retaining tab and slide the blade out of the hooked end of the arm.
3
0·14
Weekly checks
the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage. New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.
Tyre condition and pressure
It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that
The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).
1 Tread Depth - visual check
Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.
2 Tread Depth - manual check 3 Tyre Pressure Check
Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.
Tyre tread wear patterns
Shoulder Wear
Underinflation (wear on both sides) Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side) Repair or renew suspension parts Hard cornering Reduce speed!
Centre Wear
Overinflation Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Check and adjust pressures If you sometimes have to inflate your car's tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don't forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.
Uneven Wear
Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge. Incorrect camber or castor Repair or renew suspension parts Malfunctioning suspension Repair or renew suspension parts Unbalanced wheel Balance tyres Incorrect toe setting Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.
Weekly checks
Battery
Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in "Safety first" at the start of this manual. 4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted. 4 Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A. 4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.
0·15
The battery is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. The exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked case or cover.
1
Check the tightness of battery clamps (A) to ensure good electrical connections. You should not be able to move them. Also check each cable (B) for cracks and frayed conductors.
2
Battery corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected.
If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Automotive stores sell a tool for cleaning the battery post . . .
3
4
. . . as well as the battery cable clamps
Electrical systems
4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative. 4 Visually check all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.
If you need to check your brake lights and indicators unaided, back up to a wall or garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light should show if they are working properly.
If a single indicator light, stop-light or headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stoplights have failed, it is possible that the switch has failed.
1
If more than one indicator light or tail light has failed it is likely that either a fuse has blown or that there is a fault in the circuit (see Chapter 12). The fuses are located under the facia panel, on the right-hand side, behind a removable cover.
2
To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out and fit a new fuse of the correct rating (see Chapter 12). If the fuse blows again, it is important that you find out why - a complete checking procedure is given in Chapter 12.
3
0·16
Lubricants and fluids
Lubricant or fluid
Multigrade engine oil to viscosity SAE 15W/50 or 20W/50 Duckhams QXR, QS, Hypergrade Plus or Hypergrade Ethylene-glycol based antifreeze with corrosion inhibitors. Duckhams Antifreeze & Summer Coolant. Mixture 50% by volume Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80 Duckhams Hypoid 80 or Hypoid 75W/90S Dexron type ATF Duckhams Uni-Matic
Lubricants and fluids
Component or system Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Final drive:
Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80 Duckhams Hypoid 80 or Hypoid 75W/90S Gear oil, viscosity SAE 90EP Duckhams Hypoid 90S or Hypoid 75W/90S Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 11 6 DOT 4 Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid
Brake hydraulic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Power steering system:
pre-April 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . post-April 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Dexron type ATF Duckhams Uni-Matic VW oil G 002 000 No Duckhams equivalent
Choosing your engine oil
Oils perform vital tasks in all engines. The higher the engine's performance, the greater the demand on lubricants to minimise wear as well as optimise power and economy. Duckhams tailors lubricants to the highest technical standards, meeting and exceeding the demands of all modern engines. transferring the heat to the engine cooling system. Heat in the oil is also lost by air flow over the sump, and via any auxiliary oil cooler.
Engine oil types
Mineral oils are the "traditional" oils, generally suited to older engines and cars not used in harsh conditions. Duckhams Hypergrade Plus and Hypergrade are well suited for use in most popular family cars. Diesel oils such as Duckhams Diesel are specially formulated for Diesel engines, including turbocharged models and 4x4s. Synthetic oils are the state-of-the-art in lubricants, offering ultimate protection, but at a fairly high price. One such is Duckhams QS, for use in ultra-high performance engines. Semi-synthetic oils offer high performance engine protection, but at less cost than full synthetic oils. Duckhams QXR is an ideal choice for hot hatches and hard-driven cars.
For help with technical queries on lubricants, call Duckhams Oils on 0181 290 8207
· Cleaning the inner engine
Oil washes away combustion by-products (mainly carbon) on pistons and cylinders, transporting them to the oil filter, and holding the smallest particles in suspension until they are flushed out by an oil change. Duckhams oils undergo extensive tests in the laboratory, and on the road. Note: It is antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain. To find the location of your local oil recycling bank, call this number free.
HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS · Beating friction
Without oil, the surfaces inside your engine which rub together will heat, fuse and quickly cause engine seizure. Oil, and its special additives, forms a molecular barrier between moving parts, to stop wear and minimise heat build-up.
· Cooling hot spots
Oil cools parts that the engine's water-based coolant cannot reach, bathing the combustion chamber and pistons, where temperatures may exceed 1000°C. The oil assists in
Capacities and tyre pressures
Capacities
Component or system Engine:
1.05 & 1.3 litre: rocker-finger type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . hydraulic tappet type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6 & 1.8 litre: pre-August 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . post-August 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0·17
Capacity
3.0 litres with filter change 2.5 litres without filter change 3.5 litres with filter change 3.0 litres without filter change 3.5 litres with filter change 3.0 litres without filter change 4.0 litres with filter change 3.5 litres without filter change 6.3 litres
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Manual gearbox:
084 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 085 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 020 4-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 020 5-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.2 litres 3.1 litres 1.5 litres 2.0 litres 6.0 litres from dry 3.0 litres service drain & fill
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Final drive:
Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Automatic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Included in gearbox capacity 0.75 litre 55.0 litres
Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tyre pressures (tyres cold)
Front 1.05 & 1.3 litre models:
Half load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2) Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2) 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2) 2.4 bar (35 lbf/in2)
Rear
1.6 & 1.8 litre models:
Half load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (29 lbf/in2) Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (29 lbf/in2) 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2) 2.4 bar (35 lbf/in2)
0·18
Notes
1·1
Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing
1
Contents
Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Air conditioning system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Alternator, power steering pump and air conditioner compressor drivebelt(s) check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Antifreeze concentration check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Automatic transmission and final drive fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Battery electrolyte level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Brake pad and rear shoe lining check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Clutch operation check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Contact breaker point renewal and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Contact breaker point check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 CV joint and boot check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Fluid leakage and engine electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Fuel and brake line, hose and union check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Fuel system control linkage check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Gearbox oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Headlight beam alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Hinge and catch lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Ignition timing check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Light, direction indicator and horn check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Lock, hinge and latch mechanism check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Slow running adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Steering gear check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Sunroof guide rails cleaning and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Valve clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Vehicle underbody check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for novice with little experience
1
Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience
2
Fairly difficult, suitable for competent DIY mechanic
3
Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic
4
Very difficult, suitable for expert DIY or professional
5
1081 VW Golf & Jetta
2B·1
Chapter 2 Part B: Engine repair procedures 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985
The following information is a revision of, or supplementary to, that contained in Part A of this Chapter
Contents
Camshaft - examination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Camshaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Camshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Camshaft oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Cylinder head - dismantling and overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Cylinder head - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Cylinder head - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Engine - adjustments after major overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Hydraulic bucket tappets - checking free travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Oil pump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Oil pump - removal and examination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Timing belt and sprockets - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for novice with little experience
1
Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience
2
Fairly difficult, suitable for competent DIY mechanic
3
Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic
4
Very difficult, suitable for expert DIY or professional
5
2B
Specifications
General
Code: 1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HZ MH NZ 2G
Cylinder head
Minimum dimension after machining (skimming) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135.6 mm
Camshaft
Maximum run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Maximum radial play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.01 mm 0.10 mm
Valves
Maximum seat width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Head diameter: Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Valve length: Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 mm 36.0 mm 29.0 mm 98.9 mm 99.1 mm
Hydraulic tappets
Maximum free travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm
Valve timing
Nil valve clearance at 1.0 mm valve lift Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MH/NZ/2G 12°ATDC 28°ABDC 25°BBDC 9°BTDC HZ 5°ATDC 29°ABDC 33°BBDC 9°BTDC
1081 VW Golf & Jetta
2B·2 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985
Lubrication system
Pump gear teeth backlash: New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wear limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pump gear teeth axial play (wear limit) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pump chain drive deflection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm 0.20 mm 0.15 mm 1.5 to 2.5 mm Nm 80 10 20 6 Tighten by further 90° 10 40 60 Tighten by further 180° 20 10 10 8 90 Tighten by further 180° 100 Ibf ft 59.0 7.3 14.7 4.4 7.3 29.5 44.3 14.7 7.3 7.3 5.9 66 74
Torque wrench settings
Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Timing belt cover: Upper bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lower bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Camshaft bearing cap nuts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Number 5 cap screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cylinder head bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stay bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Strainer assembly to pump body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Socket-headed screws in sump (new) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Crankshaft sprocket bolt (oiled) - 1986-on: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Flywheel bolt (with shoulder) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1 General information
2 Cylinder head - removal
3
3 Camshaft oil seal - renewal
3
The 1.05 and 1.3 litre engines produced since August 1985 have a redesigned cylinder head which incorporates hydraulic "bucket" type tappets in place of the previously fitted "rocker finger" tappets. The oil pump has also been changed from the previously fitted crescent type to a gear type which is driven by chain from the crankshaft. Additionally, different ancillary components are fitted such as the carburettor and distributor. Unless otherwise given in the following Sections, all servicing procedures are as given in Part A of this Chapter for the pre-August 1985 1.05 and 1.3 litre engines.
The procedure for removing the cylinder head is basically the same as described in Part A of this Chapter but note the following: a) The valve cover is different, being held in place by three bolts (see illustration) b) There is a plastic oil shield located at the distributor end of the engine (see illustration) c) The fuel and coolant pipes differ, depending on model d) Spring type re-usable hose clips may be fitted. These are removed by pinching the ends together to expand the clip and then sliding it down the hose e) The clips on the fuel hoses are designed to be used only once, so obtain new ones or replace them with screw type clips
1 This is a straightforward task if the camshaft is removed but it is possible to renew the oil seal without removing the camshaft. 2 A VW special tool exists for this job (see illustration) but if it is not available, the old seal will have to be removed by securing self-tapping screws into it and pulling it out with pliers. Note which way round it is fitted. 3 Whichever method is used, the timing cover and camshaft sprocket will have to be removed. Slacken the coolant pump bolts to release the tension in the timing belt. 4 Lightly oil the new seal and slide onto the camshaft. Use a suitable socket and a bolt in the end of the shaft to press the new seal home. Push it in as far as it will go.
2.1a Valve cover
2.1b Plastic oil shield
3.2 Renewing camshaft oil seal using VW tool 2085
1081 VW Golf & Jetta
Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985 2B·3
4 Loosen the coolant pump retaining bolts, then turn the pump body clockwise to release the tension from the timing belt. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket. 5 Devise a method to prevent the camshaft turning and remove the sprocket bolt (see illustration). Remove the camshaft sprocket and where applicable, the Woodruff key. 6 The camshaft bearing caps must be refitted in their original locations and the same way round. They are usually numbered but mark them if necessary, to ensure correct refitting. 7 Remove bearing caps Nos 5, 1 and 3, in that order. Now undo the nuts holding 2 and 4 in a diagonal pattern and the camshaft will lift them up as the pressure of the valve springs is exerted. When they are free, lift the caps off. 8 If the caps are stuck, give them a sharp tap with a soft-faced mallet to loosen them. Do not try to lever them off with a screwdriver. 9 Lift out the camshaft complete with the oil seal. job best left to a VW dealer or engine overhaul specialist. 2 Similarly, if the head is warped, its surfaces can be skimmed, again by specialist engineers. 3 If it is found that there are cracks from the valve seats or valve seat inserts to the spark plug threads, the cylinder head may still be serviceable. Consult your VW dealer for advice.
Hydraulic bucket tappets
4 With the camshaft removed, lift out the tappets one by one, ensuring that they are kept in their correct order and can be returned to their original bores (see illustration). 5 Place them, cam contact surface down, on a clean sheet of paper as they are removed. 6 Inspect the tappets for wear (indicated by ridging on the clean surface), pitting and cracks. 7 Tappets cannot be repaired and if worn, must be renewed. 8 Before fitting the tappets, lubricate all parts liberally with clean engine oil and slip each tappet back into its original bore.
4.5 Two lengths of metal used to lock camshaft sprocket
4 Camshaft - removal
3
1 Unscrew the nuts and bolts from the valve cover and remove the cover together with the gasket and reinforcement strips. 2 Turn the engine until the indentation in the camshaft sprocket appears in the TDC hole in the timing cover and the notch in the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the TDC pointer on the front of the oil pump. Now turn the crankshaft one quarter of a turn anti-clockwise so that none of the pistons are at TDC. 3 Unbolt and remove the timing cover, noting that the dipstick tube and earth lead are fitted to the upper bolts. On some later 1.3 litre models, it is necessary to remove the crankshaft pulley to remove the lower timing belt cover.
5 Cylinder head - dismantling and overhaul
3
Valves
9 With the camshaft and tappets removed, use a valve spring compressor with a deep reach to compress the valve springs. Remove the two cotters and release the compressor and springs. 10 Lift out the upper spring seat (see illustration). 11 Remove the outer and inner valve springs (see illustrations). 12 Lift out the valve (see illustration). 13 The valves should be inspected as described in Part A of this Chapter, Section 11. 14 Valves must be renewed if they are worn and be ground in the normal manner. 15 If possible, check the valve spring lengths against new ones. Renew the whole set if any are too short. 16 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Caution: If new tappets are fitted, the engine must not be started after fitting for approximately 30 minutes, or the valves will strike the pistons.
Cylinder head
1 If the valve seats are badly pitted or eroded they can be reworked but this is a specialist
2B
Valve stem oil seals
5.4 Removing an hydraulic bucket tappet 5.10 Removing valve spring upper seat 17 The valve stem oil seals should be renewed whenever the valves are removed, by prising them from the ends of the valve guides (see illustration).
5.11a Removing an outer valve spring
5.11b Removing an inner valve spring
5.12 Removing a valve
1081 VW Golf & Jetta
2B·4 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985
7.4 Oil pump components 1 Oil pump 2 Chain 3 Gasket 4 Cover 5 Oil seal 6 TDC bracket
5.17 A valve stem oil seal
18 With the seals removed, the lower spring seats can also be lifted out for cleaning. Press the new seals onto the ends of the valve guides.
6 Timing belt and sprockets removal
3
As from August 1986, the crankshaft sprocket incorporates a lug for engagement with the groove in the crankshaft, replacing the Woodruff key arrangement described in Part A if this Chapter. When tightening the crankshaft sprocket bolt, observe the specified stages.
7 Oil pump - removal and examination
3
Note: The oil pump can be removed with the engine still in the vehicle 1 Drain the engine oil. 2 Disconnect the exhaust downpipe and the inboard end of the right-hand driveshaft to permit sump removal. 3 Remove the sump. 4 If it is only desired to check backlash in the pump gears, this can be done by removing the cover and strainer assembly from the back of the pump (see illustration).
5 Check backlash and axial play against the specified tolerances (see illustrations). 6 If the tolerances are exceeded then the oil pump must be renewed. 7 To remove the pump, first remove the following components: a) Camshaft drivebelt (timing belt) b) Alternator drivebelt c) Crankshaft pulley d) Lower timing belt cover e) Front cover and TDC setting bracket 8 If they are still in position, remove the bolts holding the rear stay bracket. 9 Remove the two bolts holding the pump to the cylinder block. 10 This will release the tension on the chain and allow the pump to be removed. 11 If sufficient slack in the chain cannot be achieved by this method, then slide the pump, chain and crankshaft drive sprocket forward together.
12 Check the chain and teeth of the drive sprockets and renew any parts which are worn. 13 If a new pump is being fitted, renew all associated parts at the same time.
8 Camshaft - examination
3
1 Clean the camshaft in solvent, then inspect its journals and cam peaks for pitting, scoring, cracking and wear. 2 The camshaft bearings are machined directly into the cylinder head and the bearing caps. 3 Radial play in the bearings can be measured using the Plastigage method. Compare the results with the specified dimension. 4 If wear is evident, consult your VW dealer. 5 To check camshaft endfloat, refit the camshaft using only number 3 bearing cap. 6 Set up a dial test indicator or use feeler blades to measure the endfloat (see illustration). If the endfloat is greater than that specified, consult your VW dealer.
7.5a Checking oil pump backlash
7.5b Checking oil pump axial play
8.6 Measuring camshaft endfloat
1081 VW Golf & Jetta
Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985 2B·5
9.1 Checking oil pump drive chain tension
10.2 Refitting the camshaft
9 Oil pump - refitting
3
10 Camshaft - refitting
3
Refitting is a reversal of removal, but bear in mind the following points: a) Use new gaskets on all components. b) Lubricate all new parts liberally with clean engine oil. c) If the small plug in the front cover is at all damaged, renew it. d) Fit a new crankshaft oil seal to the cover. The oil seal can be prised out and a new one pressed fully home. e) The chain is tensioned by moving the pump housing against its mounting bolts. f) With light finger pressure exerted on the chain, deflection should be as specified (see illustration). g) Whenever the sump is removed with the engine in situ, the two hexagon screws in the sealing flange at the flywheel end should be replaced by socket-headed screws and spring washers, and tightened to the specified torque setting.
1 Lubricate the bucket tappets, the camshaft journals and the camshaft liberally with clean engine oil. 2 Place the camshaft in position on the cylinder head (see illustration). 3 Fit a new camshaft oil seal (see illustration). 4 Refit the bearing caps, ensuring that they are the right way and in their correct position (they should be numbered 1 to 5, readable from the exhaust manifold side of the head). 5 Thread on the cap retaining nuts loosely, then tighten the nuts on Nos. 2 and 4 caps in a diagonal sequence to the Stage 1 torque figure specified (see illustration). 6 Tighten the nuts on caps 1, 3 and 5 to the Stage 1 torque. 7 Once all nuts have been tightened to the Stage 1 torque, tighten all nuts a further 90° (Stage 2). Fit and tighten No. 5 cap screws to the correct torque.
8 Refit the Woodruff key into its slot in the camshaft, where applicable. Fit the camshaft sprocket and tighten the bolt to the specified torque (see illustration). 9 If the work is being carried out in the engine compartment, follow the procedure given in Part A of this Chapter, Section 35, paragraphs 9 to 18. 10 Ignore any reference to the oil spray tube and be sure to refit the oil shield at the distributor end of the camshaft before the valve cover is refitted. 11 If the cylinder head is out of the vehicle, it will obviously have to be refitted before the timing belt can be reconnected.
2B
11 Cylinder head - refitting
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1 Clean all traces of old gasket from the cylinder block and cylinder head faces, taking great care not to mark the gasket surfaces. 2 Using a new gasket, fit the inlet manifold (see illustrations).
10.3 Camshaft oil seal
10.5 Tightening a camshaft bearing cap nut
10.8 Fitting the camshaft sprocket bolt
1081 VW Golf & Jetta
2B·6 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985
11.2a Fitting a new inlet manifold gasket 3 If they have been removed, refit the oil pressure switches, using new copper sealing washers (see illustration). 4 Refit the thermostat housing, using a new O-ring (see illustration).
11.2b Fitting inlet manifold complete with carburettor 5 Refit the coolant hoses, ensuring that they are connected up in the correct position (see illustration). 6 Lubricate the fuel pump plunger with clean engine oil and slip it into its housing in the
11.3 Refitting oil pressure switch cylinder head (see illustration). 7 Refit the fuel pump and fit and tighten the bolts, not forgetting the engine lifting eye (see illustrations). 8 Slide the distributor into position and ensure that it goes fully home (see illustration). Hand-tighten the retaining bolts. 9 Fit the distributor rotor arm (see illustration). 10 Fit the distributor cap and connect up the earth lead (see illustration). 11 Check the timing marks on the cylinder head and camshaft sprocket are lined up. 12 Note that none of the pistons should be at TDC when refitting the cylinder head. 13 Position a new cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block (see illustration). 14 Lower the cylinder head gently into position. Special guides are used by the manufacturer both to line up the gasket and
11.4 O-ring (arrowed) in thermostat housing
11.5 Coolant hoses in position
11.6 Fitting fuel pump plunger (arrowed)
11.7a Fitting fuel pump
11.7b Location of engine lifting eye
11.8 Refitting ignition distributor
11.9 Fitting