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T ECHNICAL INFORMATION
Models No. DCS230T/ PS220TH
NEW TOOL
P 1 / 23
Description W
Engine Chain Saw 250mm
CONCEPT AND MAIN APPLICATIONS
Primarily targeted at professionals who frequently prune
fruit trees or street trees, these new models have been developed
as "the lightest-in-the world*" top handle engine chain saws.
(*Note: according to our investigation, in the category of engine H
chain saw and at the date of August, 2004)
Other benefits are:
Inertia chain brake L
Automatic adjustable chain oiling
Easy start system
Idling start Dimensions: mm (")
Length (L) 242 (9-1/2)
DCS230T is Makita brand model.
PS220TH is Dolmar brand model. Width (W) 215 (8-1/2)
Height (H) 202 (8)
Specification
Continuous Rating (W)
Voltage (V) Current (A) Cycle (Hz) Max. Output(W)
Input Output
740
Standard guide bar: mm (") 250 (9-7/8)
Pitch (") 1/4
Chain blade
Carving bar
Gauge (") 0.050
Pitch (") 3/8
Sprocket nose bar bar
Gauge (") 0.050
Displacement: ml 22.2
Max output: kw 0.74
Fuel tank capacity: l 0.2
Chain oil tank capacity: l 0.19
Power head weight: kg (lbs) 2.5 (5.5)
Standard equipment
Chain blade 250mm .......... 1 (25AP-60E for Carving bar or 91VG-40E for Sprocket nose bar)
Guide bar ........................... 1 (Carving bar or Sprocket nose bar)
Guide bar scabbard ............ 1
Wrench 13-16 .................... 1
Note: The standard equipment for the tool shown above may differ by country.
Optional accessories
Chain blade 250mm (25AP-60E for carving bar or 91VG-40E for sprocket nose bar)
Guide bar (Carving bar or Sprocket nose bar)
Chain oil
Engine oil
P 2 / 23
Features and benefits
"The Lightest in the World" Design Top Handle Sprocket nose bar
Weighs Only 2.5kg (5.5lbs). Optimum for pruning fruit trees
and Carving bar
or street trees are both available.
Lightest in the world* in the category of engine
chain saw, providing ultimate handling ease.
Especially in long continuous tree pruning,
hand and arm fatigue will be minimum,
increasing operation efficiency to a great extent.
(*at the time of August, 2004, according to
our investigation)
Easy Start System Idling Start
The force required to pull starter rope Employment of the "Lift-Up" type
has been reduced to 60% of chain saws carburetor allows idling start to prevent
without Easy Start system. the blade run at start-ups.
(See page 4 for details.) (See page 4 for details.)
Comparison of products
Makita/ DOLMAR A B
Model No.
DCS230T DCS330TH
Spec. A B
PS220TH PS3300TH
Standard guide bar: mm (") 250 (9-7/8) 300 (11-3/4)/ 350 (13-3/4) 250 (9-7/8) 250 (9-7/8)
Displacement: ml 22.2 32.3 25.4 26.9
Max output: kw 0.74 1.0 N/A 0.91
Fuel tank capacity: l 0.2 0.25 0.23 0.24
Chain oil tank capacity: l 0.19 0.17 0.16 0.16
Ignition system CDI CDI CDI CDI
Automatic adjustable chain oiling Yes Yes Yes Yes
Inertia chain brake Yes Yes Yes Yes
Pitch (") 3/8, 1/4 3/8 3/8, 1/4 3/8, 1/4
Chain blade
Type 91VG, 25AP 91VG 91VG, 25AP 91VG, 25AP
Length 242 (9-1/2) 257 (10-1/8) 265 (10-3/8) 251 (9-7/8)
Dimensions*:
Width 215 (8-1/2) 222 (8-3/4) 220 (8-5/8) 215 (8-1/2)
mm (")
Height 202 (8) 215 (8-1/2) 220 (8-5/8) 211 (8-5/16)
Power head weight: kg (lbs) 2.5 (5.5) 3.6 (7.9) 2.9 (6.4) 2.8 (6.2)
Total gross weight**: kg (lbs) 3.2 (7.1) --- 3.7 (8.2) 3.6 (7.9)
Chain blade Chain blade Chain blade Chain blade
Guide bar Guide bar Guide bar Guide bar
Standard equipment Guide bar scabbard Guide bar scabbard Guide bar scabbard Guide bar scabbard
Wrench Wrench Wrench Wrench
Slotted screwdriver Slotted screwdriver
(for carburetor adjustment) (for carburetor adjustment)
*Excludes guide bar and chain blade.
**Includes guide bar, chain blade and fuel.
P 3 / 23
Comparison of products (cont.)
Performance Comparison
For performance comparison with Model A of the competitor A and Model B of the competitor B,
we carried out the following test:
[1] Cut 50x50mm timbers, and compared;
1) the number of timbers cut on a full fuel tank
2) the fuel consumption (the numbers of timbers cut per cc)
Note: We chose 50x50mm timber as the test material because cutting 30 to 50mm dia. olive tree will be
the main application of the new products.
[2] Pulled the recoil starter rope, and measured the force required to start the engine.
Note: Numbers in the graphs below are relative values when the capacity of Model A (for European countries) of
the competitor A is indexed at 100.
[The number of timbers cut on a full fuel tank]
Few Many
Makita DCS230T/ PS220TH 120 685 timbers
Competitor A Mod. A 100
Competitor B Mod. B 120
0 50 100 150
[Fuel consumption (the numbers of timbers cut per cc)]
Few Many
Makita DCS230T/ PS220TH 140 3.4 timbers
Competitor A Mod. A 100
Competitor B Mod. B 115
0 50 100 150
[Force required to pull the starter rope to start the engine]
Heavy Light
Makita DCS230T/ PS220TH 110 69N
Competitor A Mod. A 100
Competitor B Mod. B 95
0 50 100 150
P 4 / 23
Makita advantages
Lift-Up Type Carburetor
For starting cold engine, it is necessary to produce denser fuel/air mixture and to supply it to combustion chamber.
Described below is the difference in the way to produce denser fuel/air mixture between Lift-Up Type Carburetor
and the conventional carburetor.
Conventional Carburetor Lift-Up Type Carburetor
Denser fuel/air mixture is made by reducing Denser fuel/air mixture is made by increasing absolute
the amount of air. Choke shutter is closed amount of fuel, not by reducing the amount of air.
in order to reduce the amount of air flow. For that purpose, fuel is supplied from two fuel nozzles.
Amount of air reduced
by choking No need to choke Fuel supplied from
the air flow to sub fuel-nozzle
produce denser
fuel/air mixture. Fuel supplied from
main fuel-nozzle
Air Fuel Air Fuel
Because the amount of fuel/air mixture is a little, Because the amount of fuel/air mixture is much enough,
it is very hard to get idling start. Therefore, operator idling start can be done without opening the throttle.
need to open the throttle. And the fuel supply can be automatically reduced to an
However, as the throttle adjustment depends on optimum fuel/air supply by opening the throttle.
operator's skill, the blade will run at start-ups or the Thus operator need not to do troublesome throttle control.
engine won't start if an unskilled operator opens the
throttle excessively.
Easy Start
Crankshaft
As described below, addition of a Damper Spring
to the recoil starter reduces the force required to
pull the starter rope to 60% of the engine with
conventional recoil starter, ensuring Easy Start.
Damper spring
Conventional Recoil Starter Recoil Starter with Damper Spring
High resistance to operator hand resistance reduced by 40%
Piston
Crank Force required
to pull: 60%
Support force from
damper spring: 40%
Recoil starter Damper spring
Operator has to keep on pulling the starter rope Pull of the starter rope winds the damper spring, and when the
to the full because of resistance of air pressure pulling force exceeds a certain value, the force stored in the spring
in the cylinder. is released to rotate the crankshaft.
Owing to this support force from damper spring, the power
required to pull the starter rope reduces to 60% of the engine
with conventional recoil starter.
5 / 23
[II] Disassembly/Assembly/Adjustment
1. Necessary Repairing Tools
Tool No. Description Use for
Disassembling/assembling kickback brake
1R003 Retaining Ring Pliers ST-2N (inertia chain brake) system
1R028 Bearing Setting Tool 20-12.2
1R034 Bearing Setting Plate 12.2 Press-fitting Bearing to Crankshaft
1R048 Drill Chuck Remover 11
1R091 Copper Round Bar 20-100 Removing Flywheel
1R127 Air Tightness Tester Testing Carburetor
1R170 T-type Hex Wrench 3-127 Removing/installing M4 Hex socket head bolt
1R171 T-type Hex Wrench 4-130 Removing/installing M5 Hex socket head bolt
1R229 1/4" Hex Shank Bit for M5 Removing Engine
1R269 Bearing Extractor Removing Bearing from Crankshaft
13mm Hex Socket Bit
Removing/installing Clutch and Flywheel
Impact Driver (6990D, 6916D or the like)
Iron Hammer Removing Flywheel
0.3mm Thickness Gauge Fixing and adjusting Ignition coil complete
0.7mm Spark Plug Gauge Adjusting spark gap of Spark plug
2. Lubrication/Sealing
After you have disassembled the following parts, do lubrication or sealing as instructed below.
Needle bearing on clutch drum: Apply Makita grease N No. 2.
Spiral spring of recoil starter: Apply Makita grease N No. 2.
Engine: Apply Three bond 1215 to the contact surface between Crankcase and Cylinder.
6 / 23
3. Disassembly/Assembly
CAUTION: Be sure to remove gasoline and saw chain from the machine for safety before repair/ maintenance!
Refer to the instruction manual for detailed information on how to remove or adjust saw chain.
IMPORTANT: When replacing Oil pump, also replace chain oil by fresh one.
3-1. Clutch Section
DISASSEMBLY
1) Clutch can be easily removed using Impact driver without locking Spindle.
2) Do not remove Spark plug because Clutch is removed using compression resistance.
CAUTION: Be sure to turn off Engine stop switch to avoid injury from accidental engine startup.
3) Attach 13mm hex socket bit to Impact driver. Clutch is left-handed. Therefore, remove Clutch by turning the hexagonal
portion in the center of Clutch clockwise with the Impact driver. (Fig. 1)
Fig. 1 Fig. 2
ASSEMBLY
Flat washer 8
1) Apply Makita grease N No. 2 to the Needle bearing on
Clutch drum, and insert Clutch drum in Crankshaft.
2) Set Flat washer 8 in place so that the chamfered side of
the washer faces the engine side. (Fig. 2)
3) Assemble Clutch to Crankshaft first by turning it loosen
counterclockwise by hand, then turning counterclockwise
for one second with Impact driver. (Fig. 1) tighten
3-2. Inspection of Clutch Drum
Fig. 3 Fig. 4
1) If the sprockets are dirty or worn down, clean them or
replace Clutch drum by new one. (Fig. 3)
2) At the same time, check the drive links of saw chain
for damage or wear. And if necessary, replace them
by new ones. (Fig. 4)
3-3. Oil Pump Section
DISASSEMBLY
1) Remove Worm gear by turning counterclockwise with thin screwdriver. (Fig. 5)
2) Unscrew 4x18 Tapping screw, and remove Oil pump cover and Chain slider (L).
3) Remove two M4x12 Pan head screws. While levering up Connector a little bit,
pull off Connector and Oil tube from Oil pump. Now Oil pump can removed. (Fig. 6)
Note: Be sure to replace Oil pump entirely by new one.
4) Check if Connector and Oil tube is cracked or clogged and if Spring (oil filter) is clogged. (Fig. 6)
Fig. 5 Fig. 6
Worm gear Oil pump
Connector
Oil tube Spring
7 / 23
3-3. Oil Pump Section (cont.)
ASSEMBLY
1) Fasten two M4x12 Pan head screws, first A then B so that Worm gear does not touch Oil pump. (Fig. 7)
2) Do not forget to set Flat washer 10 in place. (Fig. 7)
3) Install Oil pump cover and Worm gear, first Oil pump cover, then Worm gear.
4) After installation of Worm gear, make sure that Worm gear can be turned easily by hand.
3-4. Adjusting the Flow of Chain Oil
The flow of chain oil can be adjusted by turning the adjusting screw on the bottom of the machine using the slotted
screwdriver portion of Wrench 13-16 supplied.
Turn clockwise to increase the flow, and counterclockwise to decrease. (Fig. 8)
Fig. 7 Fig. 8
Flat washer 10
Pan head screw
M4x12
Increase Decrease
3-5. Ignition System
INSPECTION OF PLUG CAP Fig. 9
1) Remove Plug cap from Spark plug. Then using circuit tester, check the
electrical conduction between Plug cap spring and the ground (earth) Ignition coil
terminal of Ignition coil complete. If the value of electrical resistance complete Plug cap
is about 7k ohms, the conduction is normal. (Fig. 9)
2) If there is no or unstable electrical resistance, check if Plug cap spring
is properly connected with the ignition cable of Ignition coil complete.
Lubricate the inside of Plug cap using aerosol spray lubricant, and then
pull the ignition cable and Plug cap together spring out of Plug cap
using pliers. (Fig. 10)
Ground (earth)
terminal
3) Check if Plug cap spring is properly connected with the ignition cable.
If not, connect in the correct way as described below in 4).
Also check if Plug cap is cracked. If cracked, replace it by new one. Fig. 10
4) Install Plug cap spring on the ignition cable of Ignition coil complete Ignition cable
by piercing the needle portion of the spring in the center of the cable.
While taking care not to let Plug cap spring fall off the cable, grab the Aerosol spray
cable with pliers and pull the spring back into Plug cap. (Fig. 11) lubricant
5) Check if Plug cap spring is properly connected with the ignition cable
of Ignition coil complete using circuit tester as described above in 1).
Defective connection can cause weak or no spark at Spark plug. Plug cap
Fig. 11
Pierce in the center Plug cap spring
of ignition cable.
Plug cap
Pull with pliers.
8 / 23
3-5. Ignition System (cont.)
INSPECTION OF SPARK PLUG Fig. 12
1) Remove Plug cap, and remove Spark plug with supplied Wrench 13-16.
Note: If Spark plug is wet with fuel, wipe it off with a clean cloth and Center electrode
dry Spark plug with power blower. 0.6 - 0.7mm
2) Remove carbon deposits on the center electrode and the ground
electrode of Spark plug using wire brush.
3) Adjust the spark gap to 0.6-0.7mm by inserting a 0.7mm Spark plug Ground electrode
gauge in the spark gap. (Fig. 12)
4) Check if the spark occurs in the spark gap as described below:
Install Plug cap on Spark plug, touch the threaded portion of the plug
to the engine block, and then pull Recoil starter rope.
5) If no spark occurs, check the electrical conduction as described above
in 1) of CHECKING PLUG CAP. Spark gap = the distance between the center
And if the conduction is normal, replace Spark plug by new one and electrode and the ground electrode
re-check for a spark in the spark gap.
3-6. Removal/Installation of Ignition Coil Complete
REMOVAL
1) Before removing Ignition coil complete, remove Starter case, pull Plug cap off from Spark plug and pull the ground
(earth) wire off from the terminal on Ignition coil complete. (Fig. 13)
2) Remove two M4x20 Hex socket head bolts. Now Ignition coil complete can be removed. (Fig. 14)
Note: Be careful not to lose two Spacers through which the Hex socket bolts are inserted.
Fig. 13 Fig. 14
Flywheel
Spacer
Ground (earth) terminal Ground (earth) wire (2pcs) M4x20 Hex socket head bolt (2pcs)
INSTALLATION
1) Put Spacers and Ignition coil complete in place, and pretighten M4x20 Hex socket head bolts. Do not tighten the bolts
securely in this step. Insert a 0.3mm thickness gauge between Ignition coil complete and the magnet portion of Flywheel.
Ignition coil complete will stick to the magnet portion of Flywheel. Then tighten the bolts securely.
2) Remove the thickness gauge, then turn Flywheel to make sure that Ignition coil complete does not touch Flywheel.
3-7. Inspection/Replacement of Stop Switch
INSPECTION Fig. 15
1) Remove Top handle cover by removing four 4x18 Tapping screws.
Switch
2) Using circuit tester, check the electrical conduction between the terminals.
Stop switch is normal if the terminals are not conducted with the engine
turnded on and conducted with the engine turned off. (Fig. 10)
9 / 23
3-7. Inspection/Replacement of Stop Switch (cont.)
3) Using circuit tester, also check the conduction between Fig. 16
the engine block and the terminal connector of the
ground (earth) wire of Ignition coil complete. (Fig. 16)
At the same time, check wrong wiring, loose screws,
loose connections or broken wires.
Terminal connector of
the ground (earth) wire
of Ignition coil
REPLACEMENT Fig. 17
1) Disconnect lead wires from Switch. Now Switch can be
removed by pushing from the inside of Top handle cover. Lead wires
2) Route the two lead wires (black and red) under the two
fuel tube. (Fig. 17)
Fuel tubes
3-8. Disassembling/Assembling Flywheel Fig. 18
DISASSEMBLING Flywheel
1) Flywheel can be removed easily with Impact driver
without locking Piston as well as Clutch. (Fig. 18)
2) Do not remove Spark plug because Clutch is removed
using compression resistance.
CAUTION: Be sure to turn off Engine stop switch Turn Hex nut M8
to avoid injury from accidental engine startup. counterclockwise.
3) Attach 13mm hex socket bit to Impact driver. Fig. 19
Then remove Hex nut M8 by turning counterclockwise
with the Impact driver. (Fig. 19)
Note: Be sure that Hex nut M8 is right-handed.
4) Remove Flywheel by hitting Crankshaft hard with Copper
round bar 20-100 (1R091) and iron hammer. (Fig. 19)
5) Two Ratchets on Flywheel can be removed by removing
M5x12 Hex socket button bolts with T-type hex wrench
3-127 (1R170).
1R091
ASSEMBLING Fig. 20
1) Install two Torsion spring 15 on Flywheel as illustrated
on Flywheel, then fasten two Ratchets to Flywheel with
Hex socket button bolts. (Fig. 20)
2) Fitting the protrusion (key) on the center hole of
Flywheel to the groove in Crankshaft, assemble Flywheel
to Crankshaft.
3) Set Spring washer 8 in place, then fasten Hex nut M8 to
Crankshaft by turning clockwise for one second using
13mm hex socket bit and Impact driver.
10/ 23
3-9. Replacement of Recoil Starter Rope
DISASSEMBLING Fig. 21
1) Remove Side handle, and separate Recoil starter assembly from Recoil starter rope U-shaped notch
the machine.
2) If Recoil starter rope is connected with both Starter knob and Reel,
pull Starter knob to draw the rope out of Starter case and cut it.
If the rope cannot be cut, pull Starter knob to draw out the rope till
Reel rotates one turn. Then hook the rope on the U-shaped notch in
Reel as illustrated in Fig. 21, and turn Reel counterclockwise till Reel
Spiral spring is unwound enough.
CATION: Reel rotates very fast if you release Recoil starter rope
being pulled. Be very careful not to cut your hands.
3) Unscrew Set screw, and remove Cam and Torsion spring.
4) Remove Reel while pushing Spring case so that it does not get out
of place. (Fig. 22) Fig. 22
5) Untie the knots at Starter knob and Reel, then remove worn rope.
Spring case
Reel
Push Spring case.
ASSEMBLING Fig. 23
1) If Spiral spring has been removed, first put it in place.
2) Put new Recoil starter rope through Starter case. (Fig. 23)
Note: When using a commercial rope, cut it to 750mm.
3) Tie knots at Reel and Starter knob as illustrated in Fig. 24, 25.
Do not forget to install Rope stopper as illustrated in Fig. 25
before tying a knot at Starter knob.
Important: Rope stopper is not reversible when assembled to
Starter knob. Be sure to put it through Recoil starter rope as
illustrated in Fig. 25. Failure to follow this instruction can result
in broken rope.
Fig. 24 Fig. 25
Reel
Rope stopper
Starter knob
11/ 23
3-9. Replacement of Recoil Starter Rope (cont.)
4) Connect Reel with Spiral spring by Fig. 26
turning clockwise while tilting it
as illustrated in Fig. 26. [Start of connecting]
By rotating Reel clockwise about Take care not to Tilt down Reel so that this portion
half a turn, Reel will move down hook this portion can be hooked on Spiral spring.
to touch Spring case completely, on Spiral spring.
indicating that it has been correctly
connected with Spiral spring.
Remember the point at which Reel
moved down.
CATION: No force is required to Lift up this portion
connect Reel with Spiral spring. Spiral spring so that it cannot
Take care not to deform Spiral touch Spiral spring.
spring by forcing Reel against
Spiral spring.
[Correctly connected] Put in place without being
caught by Spiral spring
Hooked on
Spiral spring
5) Put Torsion spring and Cam in place, and fasten them securely Fig. 27
with Set screw. (Fig. 27)
Important: Reel is not correctly connected with Spiral spring Torsion spring Cam
if it does not turn smoothly after secure tightening of Set screw.
Reassemble Reel to Spiral spring as described above in 4).
6) Turn Reel counterclockwise to wind up Recoil starter rope. Fig. 28
(Fig. 28)
7) The loose portion can be eliminated from the rope by hooking Fig. 29
the rope on the U-shaped notch in Reel, turning Reel clockwise
two times, then removing the rope from the U-shaped notch.
(Fig. 29)
Remark: There are two points at which Reel hooks on Spiral spring.
Therefore, turn Reel so that it moves down to touch Spring case
at the same position as it did at first in 4).
12/ 23
3-9. Replacement of Recoil Starter Rope (cont.)
If Spiral Spring Gets Out of Spring Case
1) Fix the straight end of Spiral spring in the small hole on Spring case Fig. 30
as illustrated in Fig. 30.
Then set Spiral spring in Spring case by winding up clockwise. (Fig. 31) Spiral spring
2) Spiral spring is factory-lubricated with red grease. However, you may use small hole
Makita grease N No. 2 when repairing. Apply a little amount.
Spring case
Fig. 31
3-10. Disassembling/Assembling Carburetor
REMOVING FROM ENGINE BLOCK Fig. 32
1) Remove Cleaner case cover. slotted screwdriver Choke lever
2) Remove Choke lever by unscrewing PT3x10 Tapping screw using
slotted screwdriver. (Fig. 32)
3) Remove two M5x45 Pan head screws that fasten Cleaner case and Fig. 33
Carburetor. Then remove Cleaner case. (Fig. 33)
M5x45 Pan head screw
Note: If the pan head screws are left on Cleaner case, Cleaner case
cannot be removed. Be sure to remove the pan head screws from
Cleaner case before separating Cleaner case from the engine block.
4) Remove two tubes, then while tilting Carburetor so that it does not touch Fig. 34
Throttle wire, separate Carburetor from the engine block. (Fig. 34)
Throttle wire
Carburetor
13/ 23
3-10. Disassembling/Assembling Carburetor (cont.)
DISASSEMBLING & CLEANING
Fig. 35
1) Remove Diaphragm cover and Diaphragm gasket set
by unscrewing four Pan head screws. Control lever Spring
Note: If Gasket is sticking, carefully remove it
because it is easily broken.
2) Replace Metering diaphragm if it shows any sign of
wear, wrinkles, curling or tears. M3x4 (+) Screw
3) Controller set can be removed by unscrewing
M3x4 (+) Screw. (Fig. 35) Inlet needle
4) Controller set includes Control lever, Inlet needle, Hinge pin
Spring and Hinge pin. When repairing Controller set,
replace the four parts at a time. (Fig. 35)
5) Before assembling Controller set, be sure to check Fig. 36
Inlet needle for wear or deformation. (Fig. 36)
[Inlet needle] [WRONG]
Use of worn-down
Inlet needle will
result in air pressure
leakage.
GOOD WORN DOWN
6) When installing Control lever, make sure that the upper end of Spring is correctly placed over the protrusion of
Control lever. (Fig. 37)
Fig. 37
[CORRECT] [WRONG]
Control lever
Metering
diaphragm
Control lever
Inlet needle
[WRONG] [WRONG]
Dust or debris on the The upper end of Spring
valve seat will result in is not placed over the
air pressure leakage. protrusion of Control lever.
14/ 23
3-10. Disassembling/Assembling Carburetor (cont.)
7) Before removing two Pan head screws, tighten the idling screw on (A) to the full. (Fig. 38)
8) Before installing Strainer, ensure that it is not clogged with dust, dirt or debris. (Fig. 38)
9) Clean up the drainages in Carburetor first by spraying commercial carburetor cleaner and then, several minutes after,
by washing with gasoline.
Fig. 38
[Exploded View of Carburetor]
Throttle holder O ring 15 Controller set
Pan head screw
(4pcs)
Gasket Pump Gasket Metering Diaphragm
Pan head screw (A) diaphragm cover
diaphragm
(2pcs) Strainer
ASSEMBLING Fig. 39
1) Referring to Fig. 38, assemble Carburetor. Choke adjuster
2) Install (A) so that the choke adjuster is placed on
the opposite side to the tube ports. (Fig. 39)
Tube ports
3-11. Testing Air Tightness of Carburetor
Connect Air tightness tester (No.1R127) to the nipple Fig. 40
(the fuel suction port), and increase the pressure of the
tester up to 0.05Mpa.
Air tightness is normal if the tester keeps on indicating
0.05Mpa about ten seconds. (Fig. 40)
Air tightness tester
(1R127)
3-12. Assembling Parts in Handle
1) Hook the longer leg of Torsion spring 11 in the three protrusions on Lock-off lever. (Fig. 41)
2) Hook the other end of Torsion spring 11 on Throttle lever. (Fig. 42)
3) Insert Rod into Throttle lever as illustrated in Fig. 43.
Fig. 41 Fig. 42 Fig. 43
Lock-off lever Torsion spring 11 Rod
Torsion spring 11 Throttle lever Throttle lever
15/ 23
3-13. Routing Tubes
1) Route Tubes as illustrated in Fig. 44. Fig. 44
2) Install Gasoline filter on the end of
the fuel suction tube, which will be Tube 3-140
placed in the fuel tank. Primer Tube joint
Connect Tube 3-140 with the fuel pump
suction tube using Tube joint. (Fig. 44)
3) On the top of Housing, route Tubes Fuel suction tube
as illustrated in Fig. 45, 46.
Gasoline filter
Top handle
Fig. 45 Fig. 46
[Around the fuel tank] [On the top of Housing]
Fuel suction tube
Place the two tubes Fuel suction tube Be sure to place the
parallel to one another. fuel suction tube
Ensure that the fuel inside so that it does
suction tube is placed not touch the hex
inside. socket head bolt
Then insert the tubes which will be very
into the fuel tank. hot from the heat
of the engine.
3-14. Removing/Disassembling/Assembling Engine Block
REMOVAL
1) Proceed to disassemble the machine until the following parts are removed; Fig. 47
Spark plug, Clutch complete, two M4x12 Pan head screws (used for
1R170
fastening Oil pump), Exhaust muffler complete, Starter case complete,
Ignition coil complete, Flywheel, Carburetor
2) Insert T-type Hex Wrench 3-127 (No. 1R170) from the through hole near
the hole for the Carburetor fastening screw. And then loosen two M4x14
Hex socket head bolts that fasten Insulator. (Fig. 47)
3) Remove Damper spring and 4x18 Tapping screw that fastens Top handle to
Housing complete. (Fig. 48)
4) Release Top handle from Housing by pulling Air duct from the Ignition
coil installation side. (Fig. 49)
5) Raise the rear end of Top handle by pivoting on the front end, and remove
two M4x14 Hex socket head bolts that fasten Insulator.
Be careful not to lose the two bolts. (Fig. 50)
6) Using Impact driver and 1R229 (or 1R171), remove four M5x20 Hex socket head bolts from the top and the bottom of
the Engine block. Now Engine block can be removed from the left side of Housing.
Fig. 48 Fig. 49 Fig. 50
Air duct
Damper spring
16/ 23
3-14. Removing/Disassembling/Assembling Engine Block (cont.)
DISASSEMBLING
1) Separate Crank case from Cylinder by removing four M5x20 Fig. 51
Hex socket head bolts.
If cannot be separated because of the adhesive, remove by hitting
the both ends of Crankshaft alternately with plastic or wooden
hammer. Be careful not to let Crankshaft tilt too much at this time.
Cylinder can be damaged. (Fig. 51)
Now you can replace Oil seals on the ends of Crankshaft and two
Piston rings on Piston.
Crankshaft
2) Remove Ball bearing 6001 using Bearing Extractor (No. 1R269). (Fig. 52)
Note: When press-fitting Ball bearing 6001, insert Drill Chuck Remover 11 (No. 1R048) between Crankshaft (R)
and (L) in order not to deform the bearing. (Fig. 53)
Fig. 52 Fig. 53
Bearing Extractor (No. 1R269)
1R028
1R048
Drill Chuck Remover 11
(No. 1R048) 1R034
Ball bearing 6001
3) Pull off Piston clip from Piston pin while turning in the loosening Fig. 53
direction using pliers. (Fig. 54)
Piston clip
4) Push Piston pin out of Piston by pushing from the opposite side Fig. 55
using T-type Hex Wrench 4-130 (No. 1R171) or the like. (Fig. 55)
5) Now Needle gauge 8 can be extracted from Connecting rod for Piston clip
replacement. When replacing Piston, replace two Piston clip at a time. 1R171
Piston pin
17/ 23
3-14. Removing/Disassembling/Assembling Engine Block (cont.)
ASSEMBLING
1) Assemble Piston so that the triangular marking on Fig. 56
its top is placed on the exhaust muffler installation
side (the longer Crankshaft side). (Fig. 56) triangular marking
Crankshaft, longer
2) Piston ring is not reversible when assembled Fig. 57
to Piston. Adjusting the end-gap of Piston ring
fit in the groove of Piston; first the lower Piston [WRONG]
ring, then the upper one. (Fig. 57)
Caution: [CORRECT]
1) Because Piston ring is easily broken, take care
not to expand excessively when installing new Piston ring Knock pin
one.
2) When inserting Piston into Cylinder, be very
careful with the position of the end-gap of [WRONG]
Piston ring, never placing Piston ring over the
knock pin. It will result in broken Piston ring
to force Piston into Cylinder with the ring
placed over the knock pin.
3) Crankshaft is not reversible when assembled to Fig. 58
Cylinder. Place it so that the longer shaft faces
the Exhaust muffler installation side. (Fig. 58)
4) Apply "Three bond 1215" to the matching surface matching surface Crankshaft, longer
between Crankcase and Cylinder; it is enough to to apply "Three
apply the adhesive only to the shaded portion of bond 1215"
Crankcase.
And then aligning the protrusion on Crankcase Exhaust muffler
with one on Cylinder as illustrated in Fig. 59, installation side
assemble them together.
Cylinder
Crankcase
Fig. 59
Cylinder Crankcase
Align these two protrusions.
18/ 23
3-15. Disassembling/Assembling Kickback Brake System
DISASSEMBLING Fig. 60 Fig. 61
1) Release Brake band (Hand guard cover) by Chain slider (R)
pulling Front hand guard as illustrated in Fig. 60.
2) If Sprocket cover is assembled to the machine,
separate by loosening Collared hex nut M8 with
supplied Wrench 13-16.
Front
3) Remove Spring cover and Chain slider (R) from hand guard
Sprocket cover Fig. 61.
4) Grasp the rear end of Compression spring 9 Fig. 62
with Retaining ring pliers ST-2N (No. 1R003),
and pull it off from Link plate complete. 1R003
(Fig. 62)
Note: Use Retaining ring pliers ST-2N
(No. 1R003) when grasping or tightening parts
in the following disassembling/assembling steps. Link plate
5) Remove Compression spring 6. complete Compression
spring 9
6) Grasp the Front hand guard section together Fig. 63
with Compression spring 9, and pull them off
from the machine. (Fig. 63) Link plate complete
7) When removing Brake band (Hand guard cover),
unscrew two 4x12 Tapping screws.
Front guard
section
ASSEMBLING Fig. 64
1) Set all parts except Compression spring 9 in place of
Sprocket cover by doing the reverse of the assembling steps.
2) Grasp the rear end of Compression spring 9 with Retaining
ring pliers ST-2N (No. 1R003), and then it put through
Link plate complete while levering up Link plate complete
as illustrated in Fig. 64.
3) Put Compression spring 9 in Sprocket cover as follows; Fig. 65
First, compress one end of the spring with one jaw of the
pliers put in the first through hole in Link plate complete Compress this end.
other put around the fourth winding of the spring.
Then push down the other end of the spring. (Fig. 65)
4) Install Spring cover, and fasten Brake band (Hand guard Push down
cover) with 4x12 Tapping screws. this end.
Then move Front hand guard to make sure that it works
properly.
19/ 23
3-16. Miscellaneous Remarks
[1] Do not reuse Gaskets between Exhaust muffler and Cylinder. Fig. 66
Always use new one for replacement. (Fig. 66)
[2] If any sawdust or debris in the saw chain tensioner in Sprocket cover, Fig. 67
blow it out using power blower or the like. (Fig. 67)
4. Adjustment
See Instruction manual for adjustment of idling settings and saw chain tension.
P 20/ 23
Circuit diagram
Color index of lead wires' sheath
Black
Red
Receptacle
Body earth Switch
Insulated connector
Ignition coil complete
Insulated receptacle
P 21/ 23
Wiring diagram
Connect the lead wires (red, black)
with the terminals of switch before
assembling the switch to the top
handle cover.
Switch
Receptacle
Top handle cover
Lead wire (red)
Lead wire (black)
Assemble the switch to the top handle cover
so that the rib on the top handle cover is
positioned between the terminals of the switch.
Switch
Top handle cover
Fix the lead wires with
this lead wire holder.
Rib
P 22/ 23
Wiring diagram
Route the lead wires through Lead wires
Top handle cover
the space (the shaded portion)
between the main housing and
the top cover.
Main housing
Top cover
Lead wires
Fix the lead wires with
the lead wire holders.
Route the lead wires
under the tubes.
Tubes
Inside wall
Pins
Route the lead wires
and the tubes between
the pins and the inside
wall.
Fix the tubes with
the lead wire holders.
Body earth
P 23/ 23
Wiring diagram
Route the lead wire through Main housing
the space (the shaded portion) Lead wire
between the main housing and
the baffle plate.
Baffle plate
Route the lead wire
between the pin and
the inside wall.
Fix the lead wire with
Inside wall the lead wire holder.
Pin
Route the lead wire
under the tubes.
Tube
Lead wire
Ignition coil complete
Assemble the insulated receptacle
to the ignition coil complete as
illustrated here.