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2C·1

Chapter 2 Part C: Zetec engine - in-car engine repair procedures
Contents
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Cylinder head and valve components - cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2D Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2D Engine/transmission - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2D Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 19 Exhaust manifold - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 18 General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . 2 Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Timing belt tensioner and toothed pulleys - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 3

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Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for novice with little experience Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience Fairly difficult, suitable for competent DIY mechanic Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic Very difficult, suitable for expert DIY or professional

Specifications
General
Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engine code: 1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Capacity: 1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bore: 1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stroke - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Compression ratio: 1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, double overhead camshafts LIE RDA, RQB 1597 cc 1796 cc 76.0 mm 80.6 mm 88.0 mm 10.3:1 10.0:1 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end) Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle) 28.395 to 28.425 mm 25.960 to 25.980 mm 0.020 to 0.070 mm 0.080 to 0.220 mm See Chapter 1 See Chapter 1 No information available at time of writing No information available at time of writing

Cylinder head
Hydraulic tappet bore inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Camshafts and hydraulic tappets
Camshaft bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Camshaft bearing journal-to-cylinder head running clearance . . . . . . . Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Lubrication
Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil pump clearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2C·2 Zetec engine ­ in-car engine repair procedures
Torque wrench settings Nm Cylinder head cover bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Camshaft toothed pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Camshaft bearing cap bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Cylinder head bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 105º Timing belt cover fasteners: Upper-to-middle (outer) cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Cover-to-cylinder head or block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Cover studs-to-cylinder head or block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 11 Timing belt tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Timing belt tensioner backplate locating peg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 Timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Timing belt guide pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40 Water pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Inlet manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Alternator mounting bracket-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Cylinder head support plates: Front plate Torx screws - to power steering pump/air conditioning compressor mounting bracket and cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Rear plate/engine lifting eye to alternator mounting bracket and cylinder head bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Front engine lifting eye bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Inlet and exhaust manifold studs-to-cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 maximum Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts: Shield-to-cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Shield/dipstick tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Shield/coolant pipe-to-manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Air conditioning refrigerant pipe-to-exhaust manifold bolts . . . . . . . . . . 10 Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 to 115 Oil pump-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Oil pick-up pipe-to-pump screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Oil baffle/pump pick-up pipe nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Oil filter adapter-to-pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 25 Oil pressure warning light switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 22 Coolant pipe-to-sump bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Flywheel/driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 to 112 Crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Note: Refer to Part D of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.
mounted on a stand, some of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined will not apply. Information concerning engine/transmission removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can be found in Part D of this Chapter, which also includes the Specifications relevant to those procedures. lbf ft 1.5 5 50 7 14 18 33

3 5 6.5 to 8 28 6 to 8 7 26 to 30 7 35 13 35

35 35 12 7 maximum 5 7 17 12 7 80 to 85 7 7 14 13 to 18 20 15 to 16 7 81 to 83 16

1 General information

How to use this Chapter
This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair procedures possible while the engine is still installed in the vehicle, and includes only the Specifications relevant to those procedures. Similar information concerning the 1.3 litre HCS engine, and the 1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH engines, will be found in Parts A and B of this Chapter respectively. Since these procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle, if the engine has been removed from the vehicle and

General description Zetec engine
The Zetec engine, (formerly Zeta), is of sixteen-valve, double overhead camshaft (DOHC), four-cylinder, in-line type, mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle, with the (clutch and) transmission on its left-hand end (see illustrations). Apart from the plastic timing belt covers and the cast-iron cylinder block/crankcase, all

major engine castings are of aluminium alloy. The crankshaft runs in five main bearings, the centre main bearing's upper half incorporating thrustwashers to control crankshaft endfloat. The connecting rods rotate on horizontally-split bearing shells at their big-ends. The pistons are attached to the connecting rods by gudgeon pins which are an interference fit in the connecting rod smallend eyes. The aluminium alloy pistons are fitted with three piston rings: two compression rings and an oil control ring. After manufacture, the cylinder bores and piston skirts are measured and classified into three grades, which must be carefully matched together, to ensure the correct piston/cylinder clearance; no oversizes are available to permit reboring.

Zetec engine ­ in-car engine repair procedures 2C·3

1.3A Longitudinal cross-section through engine - inset showing timing belt details

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Inlet camshaft Exhaust camshaft Oil galleries Exhaust port Oil strainer and pick-up pipe Oil baffle Crankshaft Piston-cooling oil jet (where fitted) Inlet valve Inlet port Fuel injector Inlet camshaft toothed pulley Timing belt Exhaust camshaft toothed pulley Timing belt (front) guide pulley Crankshaft toothed pulley - behind Crankshaft pulley Oil cooler (where fitted) Timing belt (rear) guide pulley Timing belt tensioner

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The inlet and exhaust valves are each closed by coil springs; they operate in guides which are shrink-fitted into the cylinder head, as are the valve seat inserts. Both camshafts are driven by the same toothed timing belt, each operating eight valves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets, thus eliminating the need for routine checking and adjustment of the valve clearances. Each camshaft rotates in five bearings that are linebored directly in the cylinder head and the (bolted-on) bearing caps; this means that the bearing caps are not available separately from the cylinder head, and must not be interchanged with caps from another engine. The water pump is bolted to the right-hand end of the cylinder block, inboard of the timing belt, and is driven with the power steering pump and alternator by a flat "polyvee"-type auxiliary drivebelt from the crankshaft pulley. When working on this engine, note that Torx-type (both male and female heads) and hexagon socket (Allen head) fasteners are widely used; a good selection of bits, with the necessary adapters, will be required, so that these can be unscrewed without damage and, on reassembly, tightened to the torque wrench settings specified. Lubrication is by means of an eccentricrotor trochoidal pump, which is mounted on the crankshaft right-hand end, and draws oil through a strainer located in the sump. The pump forces oil through an externallymounted full-flow cartridge-type filter - on

1.3B Lateral cross-section through engine 1 Exhaust valve 2 Piston 3 Oil baffle 4 Oil strainer and pick-up pipe 5 Spark plug 6 Fuel injector 7 Piston-cooling oil jets (where fitted)

2C·4 Zetec engine ­ in-car engine repair procedures

1.11 Engine lubrication system - inset showing longitudinal cross-section

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Main oil gallery From oil filter Oil pump Cylinder head oil-retaining valve Cylinder head oil gallery Cylinder head oil supply Oil return Piston-cooling oil spray (where fitted) Oil filter - oil cooler not shown here

some versions of the engine, an oil cooler is fitted to the oil filter mounting, so that clean oil entering the engine's galleries is cooled by the main engine cooling system (see illustration).

Valve clearances - general
It is necessary for a clearance to exist between the tip of each valve stem and the valve operating mechanism, to allow for the expansion of the various components as the engine reaches normal operating temperature. On most older engine designs, this meant that the valve clearances (also known as "tappet" clearances) had to be checked and adjusted regularly. If the clearances were allowed to be too slack, the engine would be very noisy, its power output would suffer, and its fuel consumption would increase. If the clearances were allowed to be too tight, the engine's power output would be reduced, and the valves and their seats could be severely damaged. The Zetec engine employs hydraulic tappets which use the lubricating system's oil pressure to automatically take up the clearance between each camshaft lobe and its respective valve stem. Therefore, there is no need for regular checking and adjustment of the valve clearances, but it is essential that only good-quality oil of the recommended viscosity and specification is used in the engine, and that this oil is always changed at the recommended intervals. If this advice is not followed, the oilways and tappets may become clogged with particles of dirt, or deposits of burnt (inferior) engine oil, so that the system cannot work properly; ultimately, one or more of the tappets may fail, and expensive repairs may be required.

On starting the engine from cold, there will be a slight delay while full oil pressure builds up in all parts of the engine, especially in the tappets; the valve components, therefore, may well "rattle" for about 10 seconds or so, and then quieten. This is a normal state of affairs, and is nothing to worry about, provided that all tappets quieten quickly and stay quiet. After the vehicle has been standing for several days, the valve components may "rattle" for longer than usual, as nearly all the oil will have drained away from the engine's top-end components and bearing surfaces. While this is only to be expected, care must be taken not to damage the engine under these circumstances - avoid high speed running until all the tappets are refilled with oil and operating normally. With the vehicle stationary, hold the engine at no more than a fast idle speed (maximum 2000 to 2500 rpm) for 10 to 15 seconds, or until the noise ceases. Do not run the engine at more than 3000 rpm until the tappets are fully recharged with oil and the noise has ceased. If the valve components are thought to be noisy, or if a light rattle persists from the top end after the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature, take the vehicle to a Ford dealer for expert advice. Depending on the mileage covered and the usage to which each vehicle has been put, some vehicles may be noisier than others; only a good mechanic experienced in these engines can tell if the noise level is typical for the vehicle's mileage, or if a genuine fault exists. If any tappet's operation is faulty, it must be renewed (Section 13).

2 Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle
The following major repair operations can be accomplished without removing the engine from the vehicle. However, owners should note that any operation involving the removal of the sump requires careful forethought, depending on the level of skill and the tools and facilities available; refer to the relevant text for details: a) Compression pressure - testing. b) Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting. c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting. d) Timing belt - renewal. e) Timing belt tensioner and toothed pulleys - removal and refitting. f) Camshaft oil seals - renewal. g) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets removal and refitting. h) Cylinder head - removal, overhaul and refitting. i) Cylinder head and pistons decarbonising. j) Sump - removal and refitting. k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal. l) Oil pump - removal and refitting. m) Piston/connecting rod assemblies removal and refitting (but see note below). n) Flywheel/driveplate - removal and refitting. o) Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting. Clean the engine compartment and the exterior of the engine with some type of degreasant before any work is done. It will

Zetec engine ­ in-car engine repair procedures 2C·5
make the job easier, and will help to keep dirt out of the internal areas of the engine. Depending on the components involved, it may be helpful to remove the bonnet, to improve access to the engine as repairs are performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary). Cover the front wings to prevent damage to the paint; special covers are available, but an old bedspread or blanket will also work. If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks develop, indicating a need for component/gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can generally be made with the engine in the vehicle. The inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets, sump gasket, crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gasket are all accessible with the engine in place. Exterior components such as the inlet and exhaust manifolds, the sump, the oil pump, the water pump, the starter motor, the alternator and the fuel system components can be removed for repair with the engine in place. Since the cylinder head can be removed without lifting out the engine, camshaft and valve component servicing can also be accomplished with the engine in the vehicle, as can renewal of the timing belt and toothed pulleys. In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary equipment, repair or renewal of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and big-end bearings is possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this practice is not recommended, because of the cleaning and preparation work that must be done to the components involved, and because of the amount of preliminary dismantling work required - these operations are therefore covered in Part D of this Chapter. motor; after one or two revolutions, the compression pressure should build up to a maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record the highest reading obtained. 6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders, recording the pressure developed in each. 7 Due to the variety of testers available, and the fluctuation in starter motor speed when cranking the engine, different readings are often obtained when carrying out the compression test. For this reason, actual compression pressure figures are not given by the manufacturer's, but a typical reading would be in excess of 12 bars. All cylinders should produce very similar pressures; any difference greater than 10% indicates the existence of a fault. Note that the compression should build up quickly in a healthy engine; low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually-increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which does not build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head could also be the cause). Deposits on the undersides of the valve heads can also cause low compression. 8 If the pressure in any cylinder is considerably lower than the others, introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinder through its spark plug hole, and repeat the test. 9 If the addition of oil temporarily improves the compression pressure, this indicates that bore or piston ring wear is responsible for the pressure loss. No improvement suggests that leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head gasket, may be to blame. 10 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is almost certainly due to the head gasket having blown between them; the presence of coolant in the engine oil will confirm this. 11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower than the others and the engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe or faulty hydraulic tappet could be the cause. 12 If the compression is unusually high, the combustion chambers are probably coated with carbon deposits. If this is the case, the cylinder head should be removed and decarbonised. 13 On completion of the test, refit the spark plugs, reconnect the ignition system, and refit the fuel pump fuse. the top of the exhaust stroke, for the purpose of timing the engine, TDC refers to the piston position (usually No 1 piston) at the top of its compression stroke. 2 It is useful for several servicing procedures to be able to position the engine at TDC. 3 No 1 piston and cylinder are at the righthand (timing belt) end of the engine (right- and left-hand are always quoted as seen from the driver's seat). Note that the crankshaft rotates clockwise when viewed from the right-hand side of the vehicle.

Locating TDC
4 Remove all the spark plugs (Chapter 1). 5 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1) - unless the starter motor is to be used to turn the engine. 6 Apply the handbrake and ensure that the transmission is in neutral, then jack up the front right-hand side of the vehicle and support on an axle stand. Remove the roadwheel. 7 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see Chapter 1) to expose the crankshaft pulley and timing marks. 8 It is best to rotate the crankshaft using a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt; however, it is possible also to use the starter motor (switched on either by an assistant using the ignition key, or by using a remote starter switch) to bring the engine close to TDC, then finish with a spanner. If the starter is used, be sure to disconnect the battery lead immediately it is no longer required. 9 Note the two pairs of notches in the inner and outer rims of the crankshaft pulley. In the normal direction of crankshaft rotation (clockwise, seen from the right-hand side of the vehicle) the first pair of notches are irrelevant to the vehicles covered in this manual, while the second pair indicate TDC when aligned with the rear edge of the raised mark on the sump. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the second pair of notches align with the edge of the sump mark; use a straight edge extended out from the sump if greater accuracy is required (see illustrations). 10 Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC, one of them on the compression stroke.

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3 Compression test description and interpretation

2

1 When engine performance is down, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to the ignition or fuel systems, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues as to the engine's condition. If the test is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble before any other symptoms become apparent. 2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, the oil level must be correct, the battery must be fully charged, and the spark plugs must be removed. The aid of an assistant will be required also. 3 Disable the ignition system by unplugging the ignition coil's electrical connector, and remove fuse 14 to disconnect the fuel pump. 4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester which screws into the plug thread is to be preferred. 5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide open and crank the engine on the starter

4 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating

2
4.9A Do not use crankshaft pulley's first pair of notches "A" - align second pair of notches "B" with raised rib on sump "C" . . .

General
1 Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest point in its travel up and down its cylinder bore that each piston reaches as the crankshaft rotates. While each piston reaches TDC both at the top of the compression stroke and again at

2C·6 Zetec engine ­ in-car engine repair procedures

4.9B . . . use a straight edge extended out from the sump (arrowed) if greater accuracy is required Remove the oil filler cap; if No 4 cylinder exhaust cam lobe is pointing to the rear of the vehicle and slightly downwards, it is No 1 cylinder that is correctly positioned. If the lobe is pointing horizontally forwards, rotate the crankshaft one full turn (360) clockwise until the pulley notches align again, and the lobe is pointing to the rear and slightly down. No 1 cylinder will then be at TDC on the compression stroke. 11 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any of the other cylinders can then be located by rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180 at a time and following the firing order (see Specifications). 12 An alternative method of locating TDC is to remove the cylinder head cover (see Section 5) and to rotate the crankshaft (clockwise, as described in paragraph 8 above) until the inlet valves for the cylinder concerned have opened and just closed again. Insert a length of wooden dowel (approximately 150 mm/6 in long) or similar into the spark plug hole until it rests on the piston crown, and slowly further rotate the crankshaft (taking care not to allow the dowel to be trapped in the cylinder) until the dowel stops rising - the piston is now at the top of its compression stroke, and the dowel can be removed. 13 There is a "dead" area around TDC (as the piston stops rising, pauses and then begins to descend) which makes difficult the exact

5.4 Disconnecting crankcase breather hose from cylinder head cover union location of TDC by this method; if accuracy is required, either establish carefully the exact mid-point of the dead area, or refer to the timing marks (paragraph 9 above).

5.6 Removing cylinder head cover

5 Cylinder head cover removal and refitting

1

1 Remove the air inlet hose and inlet duct as described in Chapter 4B. 2 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4B. 3 Remove the timing belt upper cover (see Section 9). 4 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose from the cylinder head cover union (see illustration). 5 Unplug the HT leads from the spark plugs and withdraw them, unclipping the leads from the cover. 6 Working progressively, unscrew the cylinder head cover retaining bolts, noting the spacer sleeve and rubber seal at each, then withdraw the cover (see illustration). 7 Discard the cover gasket; this must be renewed whenever it is disturbed. Check that the sealing faces are undamaged, and that the rubber seal at each retaining bolt is serviceable; renew any worn or damaged seals. 8 On refitting, clean the cover and cylinder

head gasket faces carefully, then fit a new gasket to the cover, ensuring that it locates correctly in the cover grooves (see illustration). 9 Refit the cover to the cylinder head, then insert the rubber seal and spacer sleeve at each bolt location (see illustration). Start all bolts finger-tight, ensuring that the gasket remains seated in its groove. 10 Working in a diagonal sequence from the centre outwards, and in two stages (see Specifications), tighten the cover bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 11 Refit the HT leads, clipping them into place so that they are correctly routed; each is numbered, and can also be identified by the numbering on its respective coil terminal. 12 Reconnect the crankcase breather hose, and refit the timing belt upper cover. Reconnect and adjust the accelerator cable, then refit the air inlet hose and duct (see Chapter 4B).

6 Inlet manifold removal and refitting

2

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when disconnecting any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke, or allow naked flames or bare light bulbs, in or near the work area. Don't work in a garage where a natural gas appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires handy, and know how to use it.

Removal
1 Park the vehicle on firm, level ground and apply the handbrake firmly. 2 Depressurise the fuel system (see Chapter 4B). 3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1. 4 Remove the air inlet hose and duct as described in Chapter 4B. 5 Referring to Chapter 4B if necessary,

5.8 Ensure gasket is located correctly in cover groove

5.9 Ensure rubber seal is fitted to each cover bolt spacer, as shown

Zetec engine ­ in-car engine repair procedures 2C·7

6.5A Disconnect the end of the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage . . . disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle linkage (see illustrations). 6 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose from the cylinder head cover union. 7 Unbolt the upper part of the exhaust manifold heat shield. 8 Remove the two screws securing the wiring "rail" to the top of the manifold - this is simply so that it can be moved as required to reach the manifold bolts. Unplug their electrical connectors to disconnect the camshaft position sensor and the coolant temperature sensor, then unclip the wiring from the ignition coil bracket, and secure it to the manifold. 9 Remove the three screws securing the wiring "rail" to the rear of the manifold. Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure regulator) to disconnect the wiring of the manifold components from the engine wiring loom. 10 Marking or labelling them as they are unplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses as follows: a) One from the rear of the throttle housing (only the one hose - there is no need to disconnect the second hose running to the fuel pressure regulator). b) One from the union on the manifold's lefthand end (see illustration). c) The braking system vacuum servo unit hose (see Chapter 9 for details). 11 Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by removing the filler cap, then undo the fuel

6.5B . . . then release the cable adjusting clip and withdraw the cable from the support bracket feed and return lines connecting the engine to the chassis (see Chapter 4B). Plug or cap all open fittings. 12 Unbolt the earth lead from the cylinder head rear support plate/engine lifting eye, then unscrew the bolt securing the support plate/lifting eye. 13 Unscrew the nuts and bolts securing the manifold to the cylinder head, and withdraw it. Take care not to damage vulnerable components as the manifold assembly is manoeuvred out of the engine compartment.

6.10 Disconnecting the vacuum hoses from the inlet manifold d) Tighten the nuts/bolts in three or four equal steps to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Work from the centre outwards, to avoid warping the manifold. e) Refit the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal - tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench settings specified. f) Before starting the engine, check the accelerator cable for correct adjustment and the throttle linkage for smooth operation. h) When the engine is fully warmed-up, check for signs of fuel, inlet and/or vacuum leaks. i) Road-test the vehicle, and check for proper operation of all disturbed components.

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Refitting
14 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points: a) When using a scraper and solvent to remove all traces of old gasket material and sealant from the manifold and cylinder head, be careful to ensure that you do not scratch or damage the mating faces of either components. If the gasket was leaking, have the mating surfaces checked for warpage at an automotive machine shop. b) Provided the relevant mating surfaces are clean and flat, a new gasket will be sufficient to ensure the joint is gastight. Do not use any kind of silicone-based sealant on any part of the fuel system or inlet manifold. c) Fit a new gasket, then locate the manifold on the head and install the nuts and bolts (see illustration).

7 Exhaust manifold - removal, inspection and refitting

1

Warning: The engine must be completely cool before beginning this procedure. Note: In addition to the new gasket and any other parts, tools or facilities needed to carry out this operation, a new plastic guide sleeve will be required on reassembly.

Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1. 2 Remove the air inlet hose and duct as described in Chapter 4B. 3 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). 4 Disconnect the coolant hose and the coolant pipe/hose from the thermostat housing; secure them clear of the working area. 5 Unbolt the exhaust manifold heat shield, and withdraw both parts of the shield (see illustration). 6 While the manifold can be removed with the pulse-air system components attached unbolt the filter housing and disconnect its vacuum hose if this is to be done - it is easier

6.14 Always renew inlet manifold gasket do not rely on sealants

7.5 Exhaust manifold heat shield upper part securing bolts (arrowed)

2C·8 Zetec engine ­ in-car engine repair procedures
to remove the pulse-air assembly first, as described in Chapter 6 (see illustration). 7 Unplug the oxygen sensor electrical connector, to avoid straining its wiring. Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the exhaust system front downpipe from the manifold (see Chapter 4B). 8 Remove the nuts and detach the manifold and gasket (see illustration). When removing the manifold with the engine in the vehicle, additional clearance can be obtained by unscrewing the studs from the cylinder head; a female Torx-type socket will be required (see illustration). 9 Always fit a new gasket on reassembly, to carefully-cleaned components (see below). Do not attempt to re-use the original gasket. kind of exhaust sealant upstream of the catalytic converter. 12 Note that the downpipe is secured to the manifold by two bolts, with a coil spring, spring seat and self-locking nut on each. On refitting, tighten the nuts until they stop on the bolt shoulders; the pressure of the springs will then suffice to make a gastight joint (see illustrations). 13 Do not overtighten the nuts to cure a leak - the bolts will shear; renew the gasket and the springs if a leak is found. The bolts themselves are secured by spring clips to the manifold, and can be renewed easily if damaged (see illustration).

7.6 Pulse-air system (sleeve nuts arrowed) need not be removed unless required assembly can be withdrawn with exhaust manifold

Refitting
14 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points: a) Position a new gasket over the cylinder head studs, and fit a new plastic guide sleeve to the stud nearest to the thermostat housing, so that the manifold will be correctly located (see illustration). Do not refit the manifold without this sleeve. b) Refit the manifold, and finger-tighten the mounting nuts. c) Working from the centre out, and in three or four equal steps, tighten the nuts to the torque wrench setting given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter. d) Refit the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. Tighten all fasteners to the specified torque wrench settings. e) Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1). f) Run the engine, and check for exhaust leaks. Check the coolant level when fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature.

Inspection
10 Use a scraper to remove all traces of old gasket material and carbon deposits from the manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces. If the gasket was leaking, have the manifold checked for warpage at an automotive machine shop, and have it resurfaced if necessary. Caution: When scraping, be very careful not to gouge or scratch the delicate aluminium alloy cylinder head. 11 Provided both mating surfaces are clean and flat, a new gasket will be sufficient to ensure the joint is gastight. Do not use any

7.8A Unscrew nuts (arrowed) to remove exhaust manifold . . .

8 Crankshaft pulley removal and refitting

1

7.8B . . . studs can be unscrewed also, if required, to provide additional working space

7.12A Showing exhaust downpipe-tomanifold securing bolts - note coil spring, and shoulder on bolt

1 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt - either remove the drivebelt completely, or just secure it clear of the crankshaft pulley, depending on the work to be carried out (see Chapter 1).

7.12B Renew exhaust system downpipeto-manifold gasket to prevent leaks

7.13 Release spring clip to extract securing bolt from manifold, when required

7.14 Fit plastic guide sleeve to stud (arrowed) when refitting exhaust manifold

Zetec engine ­ in-car engine repair procedures 2C·9
2 If necessary, rotate the crankshaft until the timing marks align (see Section 4). 3 The crankshaft must now be locked to prevent its rotation while the pulley bolt is unscrewed. To do this, remove the starter motor (Chapter 5) and lock the starter ring gear teeth using a suitable screwdriver. 4 Unscrew the pulley bolt and remove the pulley (see illustrations). 5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; ensure that the pulley's keyway is aligned with the crankshaft's locating key, and tighten the pulley bolt to the specified torque wrench setting.

8.4A Unscrew pulley bolt to release crankshaft pulley

8.4B Ensure pulley is located on crankshaft Woodruff key on reassembly

9 Timing belt covers removal and refitting

4
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Upper cover
1 Unscrew the cover's two mounting bolts and withdraw it. 2 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; ensure that the cover edges engage correctly with each other, and note the torque wrench setting specified for the bolts.

Middle cover
3 Unscrew the nut securing the power steering pipe support clip to the stud at the rear of the middle cover. Lift the power steering fluid reservoir upwards out of its mounting bracket and move it clear, as far as the hoses will allow, for access. If insufficient clearance is obtained, disconnect the fluid unions as necessary, and collect the fluid in a suitable container. Plug or cover any disconnected unions. 4 Slacken the water pump pulley bolts. 5 Remove the timing belt upper cover (see paragraph 1 above). 6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 7 Unbolt and remove the water pump pulley. 8 Unscrew the middle cover fasteners (one bolt at the front, one at the lower rear, one stud at the top rear) and withdraw the cover (see illustration). 9 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the cover edges engage correctly with each other, and note the torque wrench settings specified for the various fasteners. 10 If the power steering hoses where disconnected, bleed the system as described in Chapter 10 after reconnection. 1 Timing belt upper cover 2 Inlet camshaft toothed pulley 3 Exhaust camshaft toothed pulley 4 Timing belt 5 Timing belt tensioner 6 Crankshaft toothed pulley 7 Timing belt middle cover 8 Timing belt lower cover 9 Crankshaft pulley 10 Water pump pulley 9.8 Timing belt and cover details

Lower cover
11 Remove the crankshaft pulley (see Section 8). 12 Unscrew the cover's three securing bolts, and withdraw it (see illustration). 13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; ensure the cover edges engage correctly with each other, and note the torque wrench settings specified for the various fasteners.

9.12 Removing timing belt lower cover bolt locations arrowed

9.15 Timing belt inner shield fasteners (arrowed)

2C·10 Zetec engine ­ in-car engine repair procedures
Inner shield
14 Remove the timing belt, its tensioner components and the camshaft toothed pulleys (see Sections 10 and 11). 15 The shield is secured to the cylinder head by two bolts at the top, and by two studs lower down; unscrew these and withdraw the shield (see illustration). 16 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; note the torque wrench settings specified for the various fasteners. on the compression stroke - by resting this tool on the cylinder head mating surface, and sliding it into the slot in the left-hand end of both camshafts (see illustration). The tool should slip snugly into both slots while resting on the cylinder head mating surface; if one camshaft is only slightly out of alignment, it is permissible to use an open-ended spanner to rotate the camshaft gently and carefully until the tool will fit. 9 If both camshaft slots (they are machined significantly off-centre) are below the level of the cylinder head mating surface, rotate the crankshaft through one full turn clockwise and fit the tool again; it should now fit as described in the previous paragraph. 10 With the camshaft aligning tool remaining in place, remove the crankshaft pulley. Do not use the locked camshafts to prevent the crankshaft from rotating - use only the locking method described in Section 8. 11 Remove the timing belt lower and middle covers (see Section 9). 12 With the camshaft-aligning tool still in place, slacken the tensioner bolt, and use an Allen key inserted into its centre to rotate the tensioner clockwise as far as possible away from the belt; retighten the bolt to secure the tensioner clear of the timing belt (see illustration). 13 If the timing belt is to be re-used, use white paint or similar to mark its direction of rotation, and note from the manufacturer's markings which way round it is fitted. Withdraw the belt. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted. 14 If the belt is being removed for reasons other than routine renewal, check it carefully for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, cracks (especially at the roots of the belt teeth) or contamination with oil or coolant. Renew the belt if there is the slightest doubt about its condition. As a safety measure, the belt must be renewed as a matter of course at the intervals given in Chapter 1; if its history is unknown, the belt should be renewed irrespective of its apparent condition whenever the engine is overhauled. Similarly, check the tensioner spring (where fitted), renewing it if there is any doubt about its condition. Check also the toothed pulleys for signs of wear or damage, and ensure that the tensioner and guide pulleys rotate smoothly on their bearings; renew any worn or damaged components. If signs of oil or coolant contamination are found, trace the source of the leak and rectify it, then wash down the engine timing belt area and related components, to remove all traces of oil or coolant. 15 On reassembly, temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, to check that the pulley notches and sump rib are aligned as described in paragraph 6 above, then ensure that both camshafts are aligned at TDC by the special tool (paragraph 8). If the engine is being reassembled after major dismantling, both camshaft toothed pulleys should be free to rotate on their respective camshafts; if the timing belt alone is being renewed, both pulleys should still be securely fastened. 16 A holding tool will be required to prevent the camshaft toothed pulleys from rotating while their bolts are slackened and retightened; either obtain Ford service tool 15-030A, or fabricate a substitute as follows. Find two lengths of steel strip, one approximately 600 mm long and the other about 200 mm, and three bolts with nuts and washers; one nut and bolt forming the pivot of a forked tool, with the remaining nuts and bolts at the tips of the "forks", to engage with the pulley spokes as shown in the accompanying illustrations. Note: Do not use the camshaft-aligning tool (whether genuine Ford or not) to prevent rotation while the camshaft toothed pulley bolts are slackened or tightened; the risk of damage to the camshaft concerned and to the cylinder head is far too great. Use only a forked holding tool applied directly to the pulleys, as described. 17 If it is being fitted for the first time, screw the timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin into the cylinder head, tightening it to the specified torque wrench setting. Unbolt the tensioner, hook the spring on to the pin and the tensioner backplate, then refit the tensioner, engaging its backplate on the locating peg (see illustrations). 18 In all cases, slacken the tensioner bolt (if

10 Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment

4

Note: To carry out this operation, a new timing belt (where applicable), a new cylinder head cover gasket, and some special tools (see text) will be required. If the timing belt is being removed for the first time since the vehicle left the factory, a tensioner spring and retaining pin must be obtained for fitting on reassembly. 1 With the vehicle parked on firm level ground, open the bonnet and disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1. 2 Slacken the water pump pulley bolts. 3 Remove the cylinder head cover (see Section 5). 4 Remove the spark plugs, covering their holes with clean rag, to prevent dirt or other foreign bodies from dropping in (see Chapter 1). 5 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 6 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the second pair of notches in the pulley rim align with the edge of the sump mark, so that Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are at TDC (see Section 4). 7 Unbolt and remove the water pump pulley and the auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley. 8 Obtain Ford service tool 21-162, or fabricate a substitute from a strip of metal 5 mm thick (while the strip's thickness is critical, its length and width are not, but should be approximately 180 to 230 mm by 20 to 30 mm). Check that Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are at Top Dead Centre (TDC) - No 1

10.8 Fit camshaft-aligning tool to ensure engine is locked with Nos 1 and 4 cylinders at TDC

10.12 Slacken tensioner bolt, and use Allen key to rotate tensioner away from timing belt

10.17A Fitting tensioner spring retaining pin

Zetec engine ­ in-car engine repair procedures 2C·11

10.17B Hook spring onto tensioner and refit as shown - engage tensioner backplate on locating peg (arrowed) . . . necessary), and use an Allen key inserted into its centre to rotate the tensioner clockwise as far as possible against spring tension, then retighten the bolt to secure the tensioner (see illustration). 19 Fit the timing belt; if the original is being refitted, ensure that the marks and notes made on removal are followed, so that the belt is refitted the same way round, and to run in the same direction. Starting at the crankshaft toothed pulley, work anti-clockwise around the camshaft toothed pulleys and tensioner, finishing off at the rear guide pulley. The front run, between the crankshaft and the exhaust camshaft toothed pulleys, must be kept taut, without altering the position either of the crankshaft or of the camshaft(s) - if necessary, the position of the camshaft toothed pulleys can be altered by rotating each on its camshaft (which remains fixed by the aligning tool). Where the pulley is still fastened, use the holding tool described in paragraph 16 above to prevent the pulley from rotating while its retaining bolt is slackened - the pulley can then be rotated on the camshaft until the belt will slip into place; retighten the pulley bolt. 20 When the belt is in place, slacken the tensioner bolt gently until the spring pulls the tensioner against the belt; the tensioner should be retained correctly against the timing belt inner shield and cylinder head, but must be just free to respond to changes in belt tension (see illustration). 21 Tighten both camshaft toothed pulley bolts (or check that they are tight, as applicable) and remove the camshaft-aligning tool. Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley,

10.18 . . . then use Allen key to position tensioner so that timing belt can be refitted and rotate the crankshaft through two full turns clockwise to settle and tension the timing belt, returning the crankshaft (pulley notches) to the position described in paragraph 6 above. Refit the camshaftaligning tool; it should slip into place as described in paragraph 8. If all is well, proceed to paragraph 24 below. 22 If one camshaft is only just out of line, fit the forked holding tool to its toothed pulley, adjust its position as required, and check that any slack created has been taken up by the tensioner; rotate the crankshaft through two further turns clockwise, and refit the camshaft-aligning tool to check that it now fits as it should. If all is well, proceed to paragraph 24 below. 23 If either camshaft is significantly out of line, use the holding tool described in paragraph 16 above to prevent its pulley from rotating while its retaining bolt is slackened the camshaft can then be rotated (gently and carefully, using an open-ended spanner) until the camshaft-aligning tool will slip into place; take care not to disturb the relationship of the pulley to the timing belt. Without disturbing the pulley's new position on the camshaft, tighten the pulley bolt to its specified torque wrench setting (see illustration). Remove the camshaft-aligning tool, rotate the crankshaft through two further turns clockwise, and refit the tool to check that it now fits as it should. 24 When the timing belt has been settled at its correct tension, and the camshaft-aligning tool fits correctly when the crankshaft pulley notches are exactly aligned, tighten the tensioner bolt to its specified torque wrench

10.20 Slacken tensioner bolt to give initial belt tension setting (see illustration). Fitting the forked holding tool to the spokes of each pulley in turn, check that the pulley bolts are tightened to their specified torque wrench setting. Remove the camshaft-aligning tool, rotate the crankshaft through two further turns clockwise, and refit the tool to make a final check that it fits as it should. 25 The remainder of the reassembly procedure is the reverse of removal, ensuring that all fasteners are tightened to the specified torque.

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11 Timing belt tensioner and toothed pulleys - removal, inspection and refitting Tensioner

4

Note: If the tensioner is being removed for the first time since the vehicle left the factory, a tensioner spring and retaining pin must be obtained for fitting on reassembly. 1 While it is possible to reach the tensioner once the timing belt upper and middle covers only have been removed (see Section 9), the whole procedure outlined below must be followed, to ensure that the valve timing is correctly reset once the belt's tension has been disturbed. 2 Release the tension from the timing belt as described in Section 10, paragraphs 1 to 12. 3 Unscrew the tensioner bolt and withdraw the tensioner, unhooking the spring, if fitted (see illustration). Check the tensioner and spring as described in paragraph 14 of Section 10.

10.23 Using forked holding tool while camshaft toothed pulley bolt is tightened

10.24 When setting is correct, tighten tensioner bolt to specified torque wrench setting

11.3 Removing timing belt tensioner

2C·12 Zetec engine ­ in-car engine repair procedures
and cannot slip off the remaining toothed pulley. 3 Unfasten the pulley bolt and withdraw the pulley (see Section 11). 4 Unbolt the camshaft right-hand bearing cap, and withdraw the defective oil seal. Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 5 To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the use of their service tool 21-009B, with a bolt (10 mm thread size, 70 mm long) and a washer, to draw the seal into place when the camshaft bearing cap is bolted down; a substitute can be made using a suitable socket (see illustration). Grease the seal lips and periphery to ease installation, and draw the seal into place until it is flush with the housing/bearing cap outer edge. Refit the bearing cap, using sealant and tightening the cap bolts as described in Section 13. 6 For most owners, the simplest answer will be to grease the seal lips, and to slide it onto the camshaft (until it is flush with the housing's outer edge). Refit the bearing cap, using sealant and tightening the cap bolts as described in Section 13 (see illustration). Take care to ensure that the seal remains absolutely square in its housing, and is not distorted as the cap is tightened down. 7 Refit the pulley to the camshaft, tightening the retaining bolt loosely, then slip the timing belt back onto the pulley (refer to paragraphs 16 and 19 of Section 10) and tighten the bolt securely. 8 The remainder of the reassembly procedure, including checking the camshaft alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing belt tension, is as described in paragraphs 20 to 25 of Section 10.

11.8 Note "FRONT" marking on outside face of crankshaft toothed pulley - note which way round thrustwasher behind is fitted 4 On reassembly, if it is being fitted for the first time, screw the timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin into the cylinder head, tightening it to the specified torque wrench setting. Hook the spring onto the pin and the tensioner backplate, then refit the tensioner, engaging its backplate on the locating peg. 5 Use an Allen key inserted into its centre to rotate the tensioner clockwise as far as possible against spring tension, then tighten the bolt to secure the tensioner. 6 Reassemble, checking the camshaft alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing belt tension, as described in paragraphs 20 to 25 of Section 10.

11.13 Tighten timing belt guide pulley bolts to specified torque settings on refitting procedure; tighten the pulley bolts to the specified torque wrench setting (see illustration).

12 Camshaft oil seals renewal

4

Camshaft and crankshaft toothed pulleys
7 While it may be possible to remove any of these pulleys once the relevant belt covers have been removed, the complete timing belt removal/refitting procedure (see Section 10) must be followed, to ensure that the valve timing is correctly reset once the belt's tension has been disturbed. 8 With the timing belt removed, the camshaft toothed pulleys can be detached once their retaining bolts have been unscrewed as described in paragraphs 16 and 19 of Section 10. The crankshaft toothed pulley can be pulled off the end of the crankshaft, once the crankshaft (grooved) pulley and the timing belt have been removed. Note the "FRONT" marking identifying the pulley's outboard face, and the thrustwasher behind it; note which way round the thrustwasher is fitted (see illustration). Note the pulley-locating Woodruff key; if this is loose, it should be removed for safe storage with the pulley. 9 Check the pulleys as described in paragraph 14 of Section 10. 10 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Note: While it is possible to reach either oil seal, once the respective toothed pulley has been removed (see Section 11) to allow the seal to be prised out, this procedure is not recommended. Not only are the seals very soft, making this difficult to do without risk of damage to the seal housing, but it would be very difficult to ensure that the valve timing and the timing belt's tension, once disturbed, are correctly reset. Owners are advised to follow the whole procedure outlined below. 1 Release the tension from the timing belt as described in Section 10, paragraphs 1 to 12. Note: If the timing belt is found to be contaminated by oil, remove it completely as described, then renew the oil seal (see below). Wash down the engine timing belt area and all related components, to remove all traces of oil. Fit a new belt on reassembly. 2 If the timing belt is still clean, slip it off the toothed pulley, taking care not to twist it too sharply; use the fingers only to handle the belt. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted. Cover the belt, and secure it so that it is clear of the working area

13 Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and refitting Removal

4

1 Release the tension from the timing belt as described in Section 10, paragraphs 1 to 12. 2 Either remove the timing belt completely (Section 10, paragraphs 13 and 14) or slip it

Timing belt guide pulleys
11 Remove the timing belt covers (see Section 9). 12 Unbolt and withdraw the pulley(s); check their condition as described in paragraph 14 of Section 10. 13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal

12.5 Using socket and toothed pulley bolt to install camshaft oil seal

12.6 Alternatively, seal can be inserted when camshaft bearing cap is unbolted

Zetec engine ­ in-car engine repair procedures 2C·13

13.3 Using forked holding tool while camshaft toothed pulley bolt is slackened off the camshaft toothed pulleys, taking care not to twist it too sharply; use the fingers only to handle the belt. Cover the belt, and secure it so that it is clear of the working area. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted. 3 Unfasten the pulley bolts as described in Section 10, paragraphs 16 and 19, and withdraw the pulleys; while both are the same and could be interchanged, it is good working practice to mark them so that each is refitted only to its original location (see illustration). 4 Working in the sequence shown, slacken progressively, by half a turn at a time, the camshaft bearing cap bolts (see illustration). Work only as described, to release gradually and evenly the pressure of the valve springs on the caps. 5 Withdraw the caps, noting their markings and the presence of the locating dowels, then remove the camshafts and withdraw their oil seals. The inlet camshaft can be identified by the reference lobe for the camshaft position sensor; therefore, there is no need to mark the camshafts (see illustrations). 6 Obtain sixteen small, clean containers, and number them 1 to 16. Using a rubber sucker, withdraw each hydraulic tappet in turn, invert it to prevent oil loss, and place it in its respective container, which should then be filled with clean engine oil (see illustrations). Do not interchange the hydraulic tappets, or the rate of wear will be much increased. Do not allow them to lose oil, or they will take a

13.4 Camshaft bearing cap slackening sequence Note: Viewed from front of vehicle, showing bearing cap numbers long time to refill on restarting the engine, resulting in incorrect valve clearances.

13.5A Note locating dowels when removing camshaft bearing caps

Inspection
7 With the camshafts and hydraulic tappets removed, check each for signs of obvious wear (scoring, pitting etc) and for ovality, and renew if necessary. 8 Measure the outside diameter of each tappet (see illustration) - take measurements at the top and bottom of each tappet, then a second set at right-angles to the first; if any measurement is significantly different from the others, the tappet is tapered or oval (as applicable) and must be renewed. If the necessary equipment is available, measure the inside diameter of the corresponding cylinder head bore. Compare the measurements obtained to those given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter; if the tappets or the cylinder head bores are excessively worn, new tappets and/or a new cylinder head will be required. 9 If the engine's valve components have sounded noisy, particularly if the noise persists after initial start-up from cold, there is reason to suspect a faulty hydraulic tappet. Only a good mechanic experienced in these engines can tell whether the noise level is typical, or if renewal of one or more of the tappets is warranted. If faulty tappets are diagnosed, and the engine's service history is unknown, it is always worth trying the effect of

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13.5B Inlet camshaft has lobe for camshaft position sensor renewing the engine oil and filter (see Chapter 1), using only good-quality engine oil of the recommended viscosity and specification, before going to the expense of renewing any of the tappets - refer also to the advice in Section 1 of this Chapter. 10 Visually examine the camshaft lobes for score marks, pitting, galling (wear due to rubbing) and evidence of overheating (blue, discoloured areas). Look for flaking away of the hardened surface layer of each lobe. If any such signs are evident, renew the component concerned. 11 Examine the camshaft bearing journals and the cylinder head bearing surfaces for signs of obvious wear or pitting. If any such signs are evident, renew the component concerned.

13.6A Removing hydraulic tappets

13.6B Hydraulic tappets must be stored as described in text

13.8 Use a micrometer to measure diameter of hydraulic tappets

2C·14 Zetec engine ­ in-car engine repair procedures

13.17 Oil liberally when refitting hydraulic tappets 12 Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of each journal at several points. If the diameter of any one journal is less than the specified value, renew the camshaft. 13 To check the bearing journal running clearance, remove the hydraulic tappets, use a suitable solvent and a clean lint-free rag to clean carefully all bearing surfaces, then refit the camshafts and bearing caps with a strand of Plastigage across each journal. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to the specified torque wrench setting (do not rotate the camshafts), then remove the bearing caps and use the scale provided to measure the width of the compressed strands. Scrape off the Plastigage with your fingernail or the edge of a credit card - don't scratch or nick the journals or bearing caps. 14 If the running clearance of any bearing is found to be worn to beyond the specified service limits, fit a new camshaft and repeat the check; if the clearance is still excessive, the cylinder head must be renewed. 15 To check camshaft endfloat, remove the hydraulic tappets, clean the bearing surfaces carefully, and refit the camshafts and bearing caps. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to the specified torque wrench setting, then measure the endfloat using a DTI (Dial Test Indicator, or dial gauge) mounted on the

13.19 Apply sealant to mating surface of camshaft right-hand bearing caps cylinder head so that its tip bears on the camshaft right-hand end. 16 Tap the camshaft fully towards the gauge, zero the gauge, then tap the camshaft fully away from the gauge, and note the gauge reading. If the endfloat measured is found to be at or beyond the specified service limit, fit a new camshaft and repeat the check; if the clearance is still excessive, the cylinder head must be renewed.

13.20 Etched marks on camshaft bearing caps must be arranged as shown, and face outwards camshaft's right-hand bearing cap (see illustration). Referring to paragraph 6 of Section 12, some owners may wish to fit the new camshaft oil seals at this stage. 20 All camshaft bearing caps have a singledigit identifying number etched on them (see illustration). The exhaust camshaft's bearing caps are numbered in sequence 0 (right-hand cap) to 4 (left-hand cap), the inlet's 5 (righthand cap) to 9 (left-hand cap); see illustration 13.21 for details. Each cap is to be fitted so that its numbered side faces outwards, to the front (exhaust) or to the rear (inlet). 21 Ensuring that each cap is kept square to the cylinder head as it is tightened down, and working in the sequence shown, tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts slowly and by one turn at a time, until each cap touches the cylinder head (see illustration). Next, go round again in the same sequence, tightening the bolts to the first stage torque wrench setting specified, then once more, tightening them to the second stage setting. Work only as described, to impose gradually and evenly the pressure of the valve springs