Text preview for : Brother_Compal_Galaxie_870_Manual.pdf part of Brother Compal Galaxie 870 User Manual for Sewing Machine
same model as Empisal Compal Galaxie
not Galaxy
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*
PA
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_________. . S S
.
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CAUTION be switched off or the plug must be removed from the socket-outlet When servicing the sewing machine or when removing covers or changing lamps the machine or the electrical set must be disconnected from the supply by removing t he plug from the socket outlet
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS 1 Before plugging in your mchine, make sure the electrical information on the machine data label conforms with the voltage of your power supply 2. Disconnect the power line plug from socket outlet when changing needle, bulb presser foot or when leaving machine unattended This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally pressing the foot controller 3 Do not attempt to adjust the motor belt or inner components Contact your nearest service center
WELCOME ..... TO THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF SEWING
In the following pages, you will see how this wonderful Brother sewing machine will help you to enjoy sewing beautifully for your home and family. A variety of stitches are possible with this sewing machine along with your basic straight stitching needs and you will find its quiet, smooth, efficient performance in the true tradition of precision engineering. The versatility of your bt(tjdg'sewing machine will give you full play as you work with various kinds of material and you can let your imagination work along with your tbotW sewing machine to produce beautifully sewn garments. You will enjoy a lifetime of sewing pleasure with yourbg(U"8( sewing machine and we suggest that you follow this basic booklet carefully to ensure maximum enjoyment.
*
To ensure that you are always provided with the most modern sewing capabilities, the manufacturer reserves the right to change the appearance, design or accessories of this machine when considered necessary.
I
CONTENTS Operation Manual OUTLINE OF THE MACHINE ........ PRINCIPAL PARTS ................ SETTING UP THE MACHINE ........ BOBBIN THREADING .............. UPPER THREADING ................ DRAWING OUT LOWER THREAD ... TENSION ADJUSTMENT ........... CHANGING NEEDLE .............. Needle ........................ Presser foot ...................... Accessories ...................... Attaching zipper foot .............. SIDE-CUTTER ...................... OTHER FUNCTIONS ............... Drop feed lever ................... Pressure control lever ............. Double lift presser foot lifter ....... Thread cutter ..................... How to change the bulb ........... Twin needle ................. .... MAINTENANCE & CHECK POINT .... SEWING CHART ................... 2 3 5 7 9 11 12 13 13 13 14 14 15 17 17 17 17 17 18 18 19 21 S Sewing Guide Book (I) Contents ......................... 23
Sewing Guide Book (11) Enjoy 100 stitch and limitless self-create Memory mode .................. 59 Program mode .................... 64
OUTLINE OF THE MACHINE
This electronic sewing machine has following epoch making features in addition to ordinary machine. It is recommended you find out such benefits item by item in this booklet. LIMITLESS PATTERN VARIETY There are 3 modes for limitless pattern selection Utility Mode ..... 20 basic stitches for daily use. (Page 24) Memory Mode... 100 stitches including figures and monogram. (Page 59) Program Mode .. self-create limitless stitches for your own taste. (Page 64) To have more easy operation, there are Auto-needle-threading (Page 9) Careful-free stitch length/stitch width auto-setting (Page 6) Both-way speed control by foot controller and finger-touch control (Page 6)
EASY SEWING
PROFESSIONAL WAY Cloth-cutting device (Page 29) One-step automatic Buttonhole (Page 33) Free arm/flat bed convertion (Page 3) Wide application with various accessories (Page 13) VOICE MESSAGE "Please lower presser foot lever." (Page 6) "Reverse stitch cannot be obtained using this pattern." (Page 6) "Please use a foot controller." (Page 6) "Please lower blue lever." (Page 36) "Please raise blue lever." (Page 36) "Please change position of red knob to left to lower feed dog." (Page 40) "Please change position of red knob to raise feed dog." (Page 40) "Please check instruction book." (Page 63, 70) "Memory Capacity full. Please check instruction book." (Page 63, 70) "This pattern combination is not acceptable. Refer to instruction book." (Page 63) ) A,.0 j-L.F +t Correct switching There goes ONE buzzer + Incorrect switching There goes TWO buzzers and VOICE MESSAGE runs
2
CHECK BUZZER
CA""'
PRINCIPAL PARTS
o
Handle (O Upper tension control dial ® Thread guide SJoint key Thread take-up lever (Input keys (Ten keys) Needle position button ® Reverse button
) (_.....-
®
Start/stop button
BLUE buttonhole lever
(D Needle thread guide bar
@ Presser foot (a Feed dog (jý Extension table
@ Thread
threader 63 Pressure Regurating lever lo Presser foot lever (_ Shuttle cover 63 Accessory
Needle 6Q
"iI
cutter
compartment
0 3 RED feed knob
A
@ Spool holder Pattern display change lever
--as
_______
$it Bobbin winder @ Digital display window U6 Vertical program lamp
___
_______________
©
Horizontal program lamp selection button
4 Balance wheel
I (
53 LED for manual stitch width
3Pattern
j·
® Manual
..... ,@
stitch width control lever Manual stitch width release button P Manual stitch length control lever Ig Twin needle switch LED for twin needle & Manual stitch length release button i@ LED for manual stitch length Speed control lever ®Program END key 3 Program START key Main power switch
I
·\3
42 F 413
©
I
I
~}Lamp switch
Junction for foot controller Power plug Stitch length fine adjustment dial
SETTING UP THE MACHINE
Let's Start
1 Power supply cord
Pull the power supply cord from the cord reel housing NOTE *Do not pull the cord to such an extent that red marking appears. housing, slightly pull the cord and release. The cord wilt automatcally roll away 'When using the foot
controller, connect the controller jack into the
i
2 Power supply & lamp switches
To switch on sew light turn on power supply switch first (see page 18 for replacing bulb)
3 Pattern selection button 20 patterns
Press this button for selecting your pattern I Pattern is selected one by one
*
4
Pattern change lever
When Wfr lever isset at left position, daily pattern is displayed. When lever is set at right position memory pattern is displayed zigzag width are obtained automatically. the presser foo If iChange necesary in accordance with the symbols of each pattern
indicated
junction.
S witch
Switch ON
Pattern is selected to the direcunction for foot J unto ontrole t Powe supply 0 -Lampswitch Switch
OFF"
ofthefirst button depressed with double speed
_
-,
i
_Ii
red marking JL
Depending on setting the functional regulator (s) you can hear the instruction from the machine Follow the instruction since it tells you the correct setting Some examples you might meet at the initial steps VOICE MESSAGE Please lower presser foot lever You have depressed startlstop or reverse button before you lowering the presser foot lever. Reverse stitch cannot be obtained Using this pattern." You have depressed reverse button on the patterns which carnnot be allowed for reverse sewig Please use a foot controller. You have depressed start stop button when foot controller has been connected
Start/stop.......button.....6 Reverse.butto 15 Start/stop button
7
You can change needle position by simply depressing this button A ...est position at its highNeedle stops Needle stops at lowest VV_......... NOTE position When you depress this alternativeriy button you can stilcri one by on fo basingnual o basting.
lee
'F 9
9
Stitch width manual lever Stitch length manual lever
manual setting(s)i
Ifor
/
6
Reverse button
17 Needle position button 8Speed control lever
While the machine is running you can change sewing speed by simply moving this lever When Larl be changed dependSpeed foot controller is used the ing on how you press the toot Controller but the tastest limit is controled by this lever Select the speed to suit your sewing need, Slow speed Intricate work Fast speed...... Normal wurk
Depress this button to start While keeping this switch depressed machine makes resewing Depress again this button to i verse sewing or bar-tacking stop NT,1Whdle keeping this sewing Reverse sewing sewing Reverse feed Bar-tacking .. depressed switch machine runsatslow speed 2 When foot controller Maconnected to ms chine, this button does not work Sews 3 stitches only and stops automatically ch ,ne,
m na seth tino
r
e
,one
hisbuttn
sired position ir position. N: NOTE If LED sign is not on, you cannot make masetting. (see page 21 & 22) Use these when you wish to have a length/width other automatic setting
Ithan
..
I II \_
Ho
0
6
BOBBIN THREADING
Set the Lower Thread Correctly
-
-·J·
Lift the table and pull it toward you. Open shuttle cover as shown left.
Removing bobbin case
1. Grasp bobbin case latch and pull toward latch 2. Release you. and bobbin will drop out of case.
2Place thread-spool
Set holder firmly so that thread spool will not turn Set holder firmly with thread-end
appearing in front
3
Guide thread around the thread guides
4
Place empty bobbin bobbin-winder-pin
on
1. Wind thread around bobbin 5-6 times 2. Push bobbin to right.
Latch
I
Thread-end
7
Spool pin
Spool holder
Bobbin winder
~~I
I
U
______
-7Insert bobbin into bobbin
5Start
machine
Remove bobbin
4 Remove fully wound bobbin by pushing it to the left.
7
case
8
Replacing bobbin case
3 Set speed control lever at the top speed. Bobbin winding stops automatically when bobbin is full Stop the machine by depressing the start/stop button
1 Release the latch, 2 Draw thread into slot and guide under the tension spring
With latch open, slide case onto the notch. Release the latch and push back case until it clicks into place. Close shuttle cover. NOTE: If bobbin case is not fitted
properly bobbin case will come
out from the shuttle immediately after starting the machine
IV
Draw out 10 c (4 inches) thread from bobbin case. Tension spring slt Bobbin thread should move clockwise
i
,
L
TensionA ~spring['
UPPER THREADING
Threading C orrectly
o
D I
`77732A
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 00...0
1
Upper threading guide
2
__
Lower needle threader
Before threading, raise presser foot and needle. NOTE: Change needle position only with needle position buttons. Do not try to turn balance wheel.
1. Lower presser foot. 2 Guide thread along threadcatcher.
2
p$
Gu-d
CAUTION 1.Do not bring down needle threader while machine is running. 2. Do not turn the balance wheel while you use needle threader. oNo. 3.Auto-threading device cannot accept
combinations as shown left. 3·
.... . ....
Needle No. 9 No. 11 14 No. 16
Thread (cotton) 30, 50, 60 30, 50 30 20
*
S
Transparent nylon thread can be used regardless of the chart providing needle used isNo. 14-16.
G
-- 1Return
... . . needle threader to .........
-
-- - -
-. .
. .. ..
Guide through the hook
thread to right side passing
4
4
Make sure needle catches the thread
raised position
Release thread for this work
5 Pull out thread from needle
beneath the cacher i by pulling thread slightly towards you. Lower needle threader as far as it f
will go
.
.
. ....
~
ee i
Catcher
I
10
DRAWING OUT LOWER THREAD
Now You are Ready to Sew
Set fabric under presser
1
Draw out lower thread
2. Pull upper thread 3 Pull upper thread todraw out lower thread and draw threads 10cm long (4 inches) to the back of presser foot.
2 foot
1. Holding upper thread gently, depress needle position buttons (Needle moves down and up and catches lower thread.)
" ">'
·',.
·
·Fabric
11I
TENSION ADJUSTMENT
Some Points to Know
I *Thread tension
Use thread tension dial at 5 usually. Locking is obtained in the middle of fabrics Ifthread tension is not adjusted correctly, Sewing performance shows irregular stitches. puckering or thread breakage Fabrics Decrease Increase
r-,rffl
j
I\
Upper tension dial
Upper thread
Lower thread
S
r*Generally,
thread tension can be adjusted by turning upper tension dial
Lower tension too tight The lower thread lies on the under surfacer of the material, pulling upper thread down as shown
··.·.
[*How to check the lower tension
Upper tension too tight The upper thread lies on the upper surface of the material pulling the lower thread as shown
The bobbin thread tension has been set at the factory for most typesof fabrics It will rarely require adjustmentl
· ,)Increase I ,I~gty
l~ecrease
Decrease
Increase Cotton No 50 Bobbin case should drop slightly
Lower thread S Upper thread
II
Lower thread Upper thread
Decrease
12
CHANGING NEEDLE
How to Change Needle and Presser Foot * ACCESSORY COMPARTMENT
Bobbins-Buttonhole foot (A)Button foot (M) 2. Blind hemming foot (L) Zipper foot (I) Overlock stitch foot (G) Zigzag presser foot (J)Presser foot holder Zigzag presser foot (transparency. N)
*NEEDLE
Removing needle Lower presser foot Loosen thumb screw and remove needle from machine Replacing needle Insert needle as far up as it will go against the needle stop with flat side facing to the back Tighten thumb screw firmly
*PRESSER FOOT
Remove presser foot Raise presser foot Push button Replacing presser foot Place presser foot under holder. Presserfoot pin must be placed under the holder Lower lifter so that holder catches presser foot firmly.
.,.I V
-.w
13I
coin or driver
..
* ACCESSORIES
Large screw driver
Seam ripper
Tweezer
Needle set
Accessory bag
Small screw driver
Oil tube
Cleaning brush
* CASE FOR SIDE CUTTER
sseon foot. a presser f Unscrew and remove holder from machine Ri
*Reavngholder
F
*Attachlng zipper foot
Attach foot to machine. Screw firmly. Foot can be used either side of needle.
,Side cutter presser foot
Side cutter
Presser foot holder
I
14
SIDE-CUTTER
Attaching Side-Cutter * Storing side-cutter
rnder
ýSide-cutter case'
Protruding portion must be guided tubular bed.
Removing presserfoot holder
Complete upper threading before attaching the side cutter and pull lower thread up Leave both threadsabout15 cm (6 inches). NOTE: After setting side-cutter to machine, auto-threading device does not work.
2
Insert needle tubular arm
plate into
3 ser foot
Attaching side cutter pres-
Depress right side of needle plate and slide it into tubular arm.
-"L
-
--
Tubular ar-
15
,(Caution)
3k*
Side cutter device is used only for the 4 patterns at left The machine will automatically select the overedge stitches if YOU select a pattern otherthree the four as indicated if side
* Use always side-cutter presser
foot when you use side cutler - Side-cutter device does not accept materials thicker than ply of denim
cutter attachment is installed.
I
Se~t knife on the side-cutter ,raised position
4
5
__
Set side-cutter on machine
6
Look side-cutter lock lever
Before attaching I and lock lever at side-cutter, set knife raised position irmly.
1. Install guide pins onto the free arm holes 2. Press side-cutter lightly on free arm, 3 Set lock lever to locking position.
Press side-cutter lightly on tubular arm Set lock lever to locking position
*
~Guide-pins
A
Knife
·-
16
OTHER FUNCTIONS
*Drop feed lever
A. fl Set at the right position for feed dog up for feeding Set at the left position for feed dog down for no feeding
*Pressure control lever
When pressure control lever is jlfted up, pressure on presser foot is released.
Double lift presser toot lifter
For normal and very thick fabrics.
*Thread cutter
1. Raise presser foot. 2. Draw fabric to the left side. 3. Cut threads by using thread cutter provided on the back of machine.
17
Twin needle CD o
Twnnede2.
a
C·
0
fl
1 Insert the twin needle Thread each needle. * ,The groove should face you. 3. Touch release button for twin needle and check the sign is on. m, mD 2 rm.2LED 4. The machine selects correct stitch width and length. Note: The twin needle with larger size number other than
Example
1
L
*How to change the bulb
1 Raise pressure control lever 2 Loosen fastening screw 3 Remove face plate.
accessory compartment is not acceptable.
Remove bulb by turning counterclockwise. Replace bulb and swing face plate to close NOTE. 1) Disconnect electric plug from watl outlet before removing bulb 2) Always use CORRECT SPARE BULB. MAXIMUM INPUT OF LAMP 12V, 4W
Fix face plate onto the arm of machine by guiding two pins and fasten screw.
Pi
Loosen~~
I2
Face i Bulb .........
~
~~~~~plate
18
MAINTENANCE & CHECK POINTS
For Longtime Use
*Cleaning
Cleaning /V* Oiling Oiling
... Periodically,
I ICAf·'·'· :·
clean and oil machine by using a few drops of oil on areas indicated .Before cleaning and oiling, dsonect power plug from socket outlet * Use sewing machine oil and not gasoline. benzine or thinner.
depending
on
usage,
Care should be taken that the needle plate and feed dog are always kept clean, L Do not try to disassemble machine otherthan illustrated. * BUZZER WARNING When sewing machine is locked due to entangling of thread, etc. " Sewing machine stops automatically, * After 5 seconds it will be restored, and you can restart the machine. * Before restarting sewing, correct the problem. * When checking the machine, the machine must be disconnected from the power supply by removing the plug from the socket outlet.
After oiling, drive machine without load for a while *Wipe up any excess oil. _ SWITCHES Double switching is not allowed, In other words, you can not make another switching operation if you keep depressing original switch except pattern select switches. SAFETY STOP * It anyone accidentally touches one of the control switches while the machine is in operation (except theI manual stitch width and length switches) the machine will stop immediately. * Also if pressure foot lever is raised up, - Also automatic bobbin winder device is moved. Do not store sewing machine near heater or electric iron,
19
Minor Adjustments
,In case machine does not work satisfactory, check following the points. If problem is something other than listed below, contact service center for adjustments.
Material not
fe e i d 1 Did you set manual stitch length lever at 0? 2 Did you set pressure control lever up'
ngg
Upper thread breaks
1 Is upper threading correct? 2 Is upper tension too tight? 3 Is the combination of needle, thread and fabrics correct? D4 you turn the balance wheel id wrong in the direction?
*If power supply stops during
operation.
*Disconnect plug from socket
outlet. *Follow "'Set up the machine, page 5'" for resetting.
* Needle breaks
1 Is needle inserted correctty? 2. Did you pull fabric excessively?
, Skipping stitches
,
3 Is the combination of needle, threads
and fabrics correct? 4 Is the needle bent or blunt?
5 Did you install wrong presser foot?
2 Is the needle bent or blunt? & Is the combination of needle, thread
and fabric right?
1 Is needle inserted correctly?
4 5
I
Is the threading correct? Did you clean the under side of needle plate?
hedbek
~
* Haloing on the seam Puckering
is threads tension right?
~~~~1.
·Bbi
1 Is threads tension too tight? 2 Is threading right?
1 Is the tension on bobbin case correct? 2 Is the threading on bobbin case correct?
*Machine
*Slow machine speed or high noise
I
1 Is needle plate feed dog area clean
i
1 s w it c you turn on the main power Did h ? Is machine correctly plugged in at machine and socket outlet? Check fuse in plug
does not start
2 3
20
SEWING CHART
Overlock Multi-Zigzag[ J Bar-tack A A A Button-hole AAjJ Straight Zigzag
Stretch stitch Presser foot
j
J
Pattern
Reverse switch Stitch width manual switch
FEE FR
E
R.
Re
Stitch length3
manual switch
Side~ tte. ~~
Side cutter
Mipup s
. .. -... -----....... . -
.. . ...... ...................... ..
..........
,
__bt
Z
paamas straight stitches
25. 29, 31
Jointing MnprposeStretch fabrics Fabrics tetc Jonig
Elastic fabrics Eastics
Bar-tack c
One-pieceGenera dress One-peessyjce
jacket
zigzag stitches
29. 51
Guide
(Page)
2652
L
7
28
[
E e R
7ein
37
37
33 33
5
513
....... ....... ....... ........
Ending the seam Ending the seam when side cutter is used Reverse stitches when side cutter is not used Available manual setting with LED sign Can use side cutter
Presser foot symbol
21
1
Overedge stitch
G G L
Blind stitch
L M
Buttoning
MJ
Scallop
JN
Shell tuck
stitch
N
-
T
T
Uou
____
INormal-size bttnbto
39
Normal farc 27_ _stitches
Elastic
L
Normat a
L41
Elastic fbis
Small-size
callop
43_
. Sthell tuck
50_
Vaos decorative
I
N
I
_22
SEWING GUIDE BOOK CONTENTS
STITC H PATTERNS ...... ............................... ................. STRAIGHT STITCHING ........ Stitching on stretch fabrics ........ ......... 24 25 26
26 27 28 28 29 31 33 37
........
............... ......... Using triple stretch stitch ...... O VERED G IN G ............... ........... ................... .......... O n stretch fabtics ....... ..................... Sewings on frayable fabrics ................................ USING THE SIDE-CUTTER ........................... ......................... ZIPPER IN SERTIO N ............... BUTTO NHO LES . .. . ..................................... BA R-TA C K S .. . ........... .. ......... ................
BUTTO N SEW ING
.....
................
.....
............
......... . ..... .... ......
39
41 43 45 47 49 50I 51 52 53i 54 54 55 56 57 57 57 57 58 58 59 65 71
B L IN D S T ITC H ............................................. SC ALLO P STITC H ... _..... ............... ........ ORIENTAL SEAM FINISH .................................. FAGOTING ......... ...................... PIN TUC KS ....................... SHELL TUC KS ............ ........................... A PPLIQ U E ............................. PA TC H W O R KS ........................ DA RN IN G .... ..... . .. ............... ................... ..............
SOME HINTS TO KNOW ............................ Placing the fabrics .................................... Guiding the fabrics ....................................... Top stitching enclosed seams ........ ..................... HOW TO STITCH OVER AWKWARD AREAS .................. Stitching on the collar ..... Starting with thick materials ........ . . . .. ............ ..............
..... .............. .... . . ..... . . . ... .........
Stitching over the hurdle .................... Stitching over thin m aterials ................ Stitching with big seam allowance ................ M E M O R Y ....................... PRO G RA M M ING ........................................... PRO G RAM SHEET ...... ....... ..................
231
Stitch Pattems
1 2. 3r 4. 5. 6. 7. 8& 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14, 15. 16. 17. 19. 20.
18,
SI
J
J
J
J
*Z
A
I
39 2.5 - ----I
rn--1-
A
A
A
A
J
J
G
G
L
L
M
M
d
J
C,
1. Rick-Rack Stitch
2. 3. 4. 5. 6.-9. 10. Stretch Stitch at left position Overlock Stitch Multi-Zigzag Stitch Bar-Tacking Stitch One Step Buttonhole Straight Stitch at left position
11.
12.-13. 14. 15. 16.-17. 18.-19. 20.
Zigzag Stitch
Overedge Stitch Blind Stitch Stretch Blind Stitch Button Sewing Stitch Scallop Stitch Shell tuck stitch
0 0
24
Stralght SUtching
BROAD E TAFFETA GABARDINE ZIGZAG COTTON SYNTHETIC 11-14 NEEDLE LAWNQ[: COTTON~ ·
s--11
~
DENIM C
COTTON
45
GEORGETTE n SYNTHETIC SILK D PORAL 4
COTELINE 2 SYNTHETIC SILK TWEED 2 NEEDLE
1
Pinning fabrics for machine
2 Start machine
1. Sew reverse stitches to the edge of fabrics 2. Stitch forward.
3 Ending the seam
1. Stop machine at the end of the seam 2 Sew reverse stitch approx 1 cm (2/5 inch). 3 Set needleat up position (A) and orkbackardand drawoutthe draw out thework backwardand cut the threads provided back of machine
sewing
Draw Out upper and lower threads by 15 cm (6 inches) to the back of machine
One point dvife
How to change sewing direction
Raise presser 1. Set needle at 2. foot and turn down position
(v) the fabric the needle works as
axis.I
Place fabrics approx, 1 cm (2<5 inch) from the edge so that first reverse stitches are obtained,
Just guide fabric slightly as machine feeds fabrics automatically,
Using the iron, press seam flat
25
* STRETCH FABRICS
* STRONG SEAMS TAFFETA
GABARDINE ZIGZAG 1--14 NEEDLE ST--TC STRETCH 9-14 NEEDLE
rF
TRCO
JERSEY nSTRETCH
SYNTHETIC608
NEEDLE
ZIGZAG
· Stitching on stretch fabrics
One Poit aci
. .... ......
* Using triple stretch stitch
2. Guide the fabric with your right
hand slightly, stitch close to the marking line
1. Baste first along with the marking
line
This stitch gives stronger seams
3ý Lower presser foot and start.
Marking line
Do not attempt to pull the fabrics excessively
Care should betaken that seam fine is followed to the marking since this is a forward and reverse combined stitch
26
NJ
T
ZIGZAG OVER EDGE -r
vevdgng
Si
COTTON SILKNE
LA9N:'
.GEORGETTE
COTTON 60~tDN So
SILK
DENIM
COTTON SYTHT
GAB FEARIE4 SYNTHETIC FLANO INE SILK
!
PORAL
4'
4'SYNTHETIC!LN
9--11 NEEDLE
~S N H TC E'TWEED SILK
11-14 NEEDLE
Make sure that the needle does not hit overedgIng foot when you select Zigzag stitch and touch release button for manual Setting
1
Preparation
Set fabric with the presser foot guide
2 Start the machine
Guide fabric carefully so the edges are aligned with the foot guide.
Do not hit needle
--- --1 --'Trim the fabric edge. Needle should stitch slightly over edge of fabric.
II
--
- . ---
27
I:
3
Ending the seam
Stop at the end of seam.
I--c~ *III-*STRETCH
-*FRAYABLE FABRICS COTTON
FABRICS
TERICOTO
E SEY~TRETCHSL STRETCH 9-14 NEEDLE
ZIGZAG
W
fij
SE
:SYNTHETIC
OVER EDGE
SL 9-14 NEEDLE
* On the stretch fabrics
*Sewings on frayable fabrics
Using this pattern on frayable fabrics is recommended.
Do not attempt to pull the fabric excessively
Needle drops slightity beý yotnd fabric edge
Basket and towel fabics. etc (Setting manual stitch width at 3 is recommended
28
*
Using Side-Cutter
SIECUTTER
*Use the side cutter presser
foot with the following stitch patterns only.
1
Attach side-cutter
Complete the upper threading before attaching (Page 15)
2 Trim on the fabrics
Make trim approx 1 cm (2)5 inch) at the end of fabrics
3 Start the machine
Draw threads under foot and pull back lightly when machine starts.
After side-cutter is set on machine, machine selects one of above 4 stitches automatically
Use the tweezers rn case upper threading should be required after atiching the side-cutter.
29
I
*Cleaning Two pfy sewing
I
Clean bobbin case. feed dog and shuttle area after using side-cutter
Use straight stitch Cutting is made 0.4 cm (1/6 inch) from the fabric edge.
zipper insertion
~~TAFFETA!:SYNTHETIC
BROD COTTON FGANE ZIPPER SILK 11-14
soOR· so
NEEDLE
LAWN
~>COTTON"6
NTHETIC
SILK
SYNHTCOTO
5
DN. CYON
DENIM
1_'
COTTON'0s
I
11I is NE
GEORGETTE
PORAL
COTELINE t SYNTHETIC
TWEED SILK
NEEDLE
lAttach zipper foot to machine. (Page 14)
2 By turning balance wheel
toward you, determine the zipper foot position.
Fastening screw is located at the back of foot. Sewingleftsideofzipper.
t5
~~0
31
*
Sewing zipper.
right
side of
,
i
_
Zipper body
I
*i
_ _
_
I
Sew twice on the seam with reverse stitch,
I
I
does not body.
touch zipper
U
32
N
Peaolar
BUTTONHOLE Shirt
.... Buttonholes
GABARDINEA
STAFFETA?)
BROAD:) COTTO
BROAD
COTTON
SYNTHETIC
.
8
TAFFETA[SYNTHETIC
SILK
SILK 508
~GABARDINE
l
Jacket
11-14 NEEDLE
DENIM)
COTTON"
COTEL"E
TWEED
)SNTHETIC
SILK 11-18 NEEDLE
S
11-14 NEEDLE
1
Marking (Use tailor's chalk)
I
2
Attach buttonhole foot
Draw-up lower thread
3 Lower presser foot
Lower presser foot in accordance with the
Incasof Mark the position of
marked line.
In case of Place fabrics as below.
button to beattachedo-
~I
S the marks on the foot and fabric in line.
In case of
[J
t~E
The maximum capacity is 3cm (1-1/6 M i binch) which is of diameter of button plus thickness the fabrics
Marks on"
Mark size of button
as well as position
of button,
the foot In case of i Place fabrics as below.
Button's diameter 302 cm
33
3
onepiece dress
COTTON6OS TAFFETA SYNTHETIC
B~ROAD1,ý GABARDINE~, FLANO SL S l-14 NEEDLE
4 Insert button
5 Draw out blue buttonhole lever
Pull down blue buttonhole lever
6 Start the machine
Hold the upper thread slightly
7 Opening
Place pins at the bar tack and cut open with seamripper.
In case of
u.
Li
In case off 1
d
"Lift presser foot to high position if you are sewing thick fabrics,
*
Buttonhole lever should be set at theback sideof notch.
~Hold
the fabric lightly with fingers. * It stops automatically when finished
K_
_
__
_
Be careful not to cut stitches. 34
* BUTTONHOLE MAKING
(Fastening stitch is made with low speed and machine stops automatically when finished)
In case of
·
Incseol ca
Fastening stitch
Fastening stitch
35I
VOICE MESSAGE
Please lower blue lever.'
When you start to sew buttonhole or bar-tackwithout lowering button hole lever 'Please raise blue lever, When you start to sew stitches other than buttonhole or bar-tack without raising buttonhole lever
Offerpoint advice
.On stretch materials
1 Glue non-stretch supporting materials on the wrong side of fabric 2 Lower the foot. * Placing gimp on the sole of foot for a reinforced buttonhole is recommended, (ELTJ case only) If you made wrong buttonhole, restart from beginning Gimp
- .
I
..
3
|
36
Bar-tacks
BROAODE TAFFETA GABARDNEr BUTTONHOLE COTTON SILK · DENIMOý COTTON" L 11-91 NEEDLE LAlWN COTTON 6
0 SYNTHETIC
0
j
11-14 NEEDLE
COTELINE'·SYNTHETIC C fu SILK TWEED[ý
GEORGETTEC SYNTHETIC 6 SILKPORAL* -1 NEEDLE
1
Preparing buttonhole foot
Adjust the length of bar-tack. Length of bar-tack varies depending on the material and position to be sewn. Normal length is 05 cm - 1.0 cm.
2 Attach buttonhole toot
Draw up lower thread.
3 PIacing materials
1. Raise presser foot lifter. 2. Place material so that the opning of pocket is positioned at front. 3. Pressing the foot as shown below lower presser foot.
base 0.5 cm
C
First needle position
The available length for bar-tack is rain. 0.5 cm and max. 3 cm.
scaleI
+ 0.2 cmI
0.2 cm
37U
I
4 Draw
out buttonhole lever
5 Start the machine
Hold the upper thread slightly.
-Bar-tack on thick materials
Placea piece of card-board as shown
below.
Oft point advic
Adjust the manual stitch
length lever for narrow seam.
lever Buttonhole should be set at the back side of notch.
L ll'' Card-board
_
notch
It stops automatically when finished
38
03
..
ai
ii
Ini
.S-
Button Sewing3
SYNTHETICU
SILt
9--14 NEEDLE Large SmallI Sewing speed is predetermined.
Button Foot
1
Preparation
1 2 Attach button sewing toot Drop feed dog down
2 Fit button into the button
foot
1 2 Raise presser foot lever and insert button as below. Lower presser foot lever so that button is positioned at the correct place
3 Start the machine
Make sure that needle enters into both holes of button without ohstruction
4 Tie the ends
1 2 Cut starting ends of upper and lower threads Pull end of lower thread so that end of upper thread is pull down to undersurface 3. Tie both ends of threads
--
Button
$A
* After fastening stitch buttoning is finished automaticallyI * When button sewing is finished make sure to raise feed dog up
39
VOICE MESSAGE
0
*Shank Button Sewing
1 Set front leg lever of button foot as
below
0pointiPlease a
I
When sewing four hole button, sew front two holes first.
left to lowe tee dog left to lower feed dog." .... When you start button sewing without lowering feed dog. "Please change position of red knob to raise feed dog." When you start general sewing without raising feed dog.
change position of red knob to
2, Tie the ends
1) Draw up both ends (start and final) of upper thread between button and fabric and make shank and tie as below. Tie both ends of lower thread at 2) undersurface of fabric.
I For strong button fitting, repeat
U
J
Front leg lever
and sew twice,
a i
(Do not attempt for buttons with 4 holes.)
U
4O
Blind Stitch
BRAAýCTO LAWN [ý COTTON DENIMC0 COTTON
IC TAFETACýSYNHE
BLIND SIABARDILK 11-14 NEEDLE
GEORGETTEE)SYNTHETIC I
SILK
"UoCTLN
9--11 NEEDLE
[ YTEI
TWEEDZ0 SILK
11 -16 NEEDLE
o For normal and thin fabrics
o For thick fabrics
fabric so that determined line is the top of work. Baste first hem at 1 cm (2/5 inch) from hem edge.
1
Fold fabric to makefirst hem, 1 5 cm (3/5 inch)
21Fold
3Make
second hem which overlaps the first hem leaving 0.5 cm (1/5 inch) allowance from the top of work.
11
2
Fold fabric so that determined line is the top of work. Baste hem at 1 cm (2/5
2Make
second hem which overlaps the first hem leaving 0.5 cm (1/5 inch) allowance from the top of work,
inch) from hem edge.
15 cm
1
cm
H.5
cm -
1 cm
0.5cm-.]
411
* STRETCH FABRICS
· JERSEY P TRICOT NEEDLE
~9--14
P
*How to sew
1
Set fabric under
foot
1 Turn the balance so that wheel needle touches the folded hem 2 Adjust the foot so that toot guide touces the folded hem and lower the foot
2 Starl the machine
Holding the hem lightly with left hand, guide work along with the toe of foot.
*When sewing on stretch fabric
Guide fabric with your right hand gently and depress the folded top with your left hand slightly.
4 3
On
completion
turn fabric around.
Guide
U
42
Scallop Stitch3
BROADf$ý GABARDINE
ZIGZAG
COTTON
os
FLANOC
SILK
9--14I
NEEDLE
In case of
F)
1
Baste along the fabric edge.
2Stitch along the fabric edge.
3TrIm the seam allowance
4 Turn the fabric to right side and press by ironing.
____
Tie securely both threads at the begining and end of seams.
Be careful not to cut thread.
43
|I
Finishing
·
1Baste along the fabric edge.
2 Stitch along the fabric edge.
3 Trim the seam
allowance
and turn the fabric to right side and press by Ironing.
U
Tie securly
both threads
at the Be careful nothe fbi to hread
begsaing and end of seams
44
··
11111 ... 1 111 ...... .. . l. I IIII ....iiii ii II iii IIii iiiii iiiiiiii ii iIIIii Iii
Iii
i
111111iiii ..iii .11 1
II IIiii iiii I i i iII
¸
SOriental Seam Finish
BROAD LýCOTTON GABARDINE FLANO ZIPPER ILK
SIL
I~
9-14 NEEDLE
1
Stitch the bias strip to the seam edge, right sides together, at 0.5 cm (1/5 inch) away from the edge.
Ease
curves
2 Wrap the strip around the seam edge to the wrong side.
strip
when
stitching
the
3 Wrap the strip at the back of work marking the hem 0.2 cm (1/10 inch) wider than right side hem. Iron and baste.
0 2cm
4 Secure by stitching-in-thestitch on the right side.
0.5cm4
------------
45
'
N
45U
one poi
1 Prepare the bias strips 2
advice (bia
Stp)
3 Trim the excess hem Make the strip as long as your work requires.
Join upthesestripsasshown below
U
Straight grain
'% N,
\
\
N%
'*
irop ;eed .., ·dI le
' '
Cross grain
U
BROAD
SYTHTI
TAFFETA
ZIGZAG
SYNTHETC
9-14 NEEDLE
GABARDINE:) SILK FLANO
1
Pressing
press on the seam allowance.
2 Basting
Apply thin paper to back of fabric and baste both together.
3 Adjust needle position
1. Turn the balance and find the position that first needle drop is 0.15 cm away from the edge. 2, Since first stitch (needle position) is into center, determine needle position by second stitch, -'
~~0.2
cm
o o
o M
0
=First
needle drop
I
Less than
015 cmA
S.15 cm
4
7
47
4 StItch along the
edge
5 Sew together with paper
6 After sewing
1. Remove the bastings and the paper. 2. Tie knots at the begming and end of seams on the reverse
Pull both threads slightly when starting.
ide.
48
"
ZIPR
Pin Tucks
BROADZ
COTTON sso
--
9LAWN -ý
PORAL
9--14
-·
ZIGZAG
GABARDINE
,TAFFETA ,
SYNTHETIC
SILK
·
*
COTTON GEORGETTE :EýSYNTHETIC
SILK
9-11
MANARN
NEEDLE
NEEDLE
1
Place ruler over the right side of fabric and mark the line with tailor's chalk.
2 Press in the required folds.
3 Stitch along the marked lines.
Tuckc
Repeat stitching and pressingI
alternately to complete work.
Depth of tucks x 2 = Folded
49
W
iShell
1Li LA
GEORGETTE
Tucks
NCOTTON"~
t
SYNTHETIC NEEDLE
ZIGZAG
1Adjusting
sions
thread ten-
2 Stitch
sew
carefully,
the
3 Repeat this procedure
Complete lines one at a time
4 Reset thread tensions
to normal.
right side stitch should
Increase upper and lower tension from normal sewing
just beyond fabric
edge.
I
Fold fabrics on bias,
3Jedge
Right
slightly beyond
needle
Sews
fabric
5
.
ZIGZAG
Applique
BROAD$>
GABARDINE h FLANO'
STAFFETASYNTHETIC{j
SILK SO-4 11-14 NEEDLE
COTTON
os
1
Glue supporting material
2 Trim along the motif.
3 Apply the motif on the
on the wrong side of motif
and press with the steam
iron.
fabric.
Basting isrecommended before
stitching.
One point advice
i
SRound comer Isewing it is recommended sewing with shorter stitches so that seams appear fine.
C51
SI
Patch Work
BROADCý COTTON TAFFETA [- SYNTHETIC H SILK GABARDINE ZIGZAG
[0-[6GEORGETTE
-
COTTON~U E> SYNTHETIC o SILK PORALý 9-11 NEEDLE
LAWN[O-
DEI
D
I'CTO SILK 11--16 NEEDLE
TWEEDE
11-14 NEEDLE
2 Join two pieces.
3 Join two pieces.
4 Stitch the folded trims with your favorite stitch pattern.
II
The folded trim should be pressed with the tron.
52
¸iii
Ii
~
ZIGZAG
Daming
B OA C ON
I...1I
60
ii"
I
DENIM : COTTON
A
i
H
U
H-]
TAFFETA: SYNTHETIC
GABENE SILK
0
I411COTELNE
11-14 NEEDLE
t
-'SYNTHETIC
TWEED SILK
O
[
11 -16 NEEDLE
1
Select zigzag stitch and set
the zigzag width to zero at
2 Lower the feed dog.
3 Raise the presser adjusting
lever,
4 Place material and lower
presser foot. Start sewing.
Guide materials complete the job with hand to
manual setting.
0 CD C=
gal
I
I"
-
I
53
n·
Some Hints to Know
* PLACING THE FABRICS
*Stitching thick and thin materials together
Place thin fabric over thick fabric
*Stitching straightgrainand bias together
Place the bias on the straight grain
*Stitching bulk fabric to flat fabric
Place bulky fabric over the flat fabric
*Stitching large pieces and small pieces
Place small piece over large piece of fabric
5
I
54
*GUIDING
*Normal fabrics
THE FABRICS
*Slippage and frayed fabrics
Hold fabrics firmly with both hands and feed for short distances.
*Guiding downward
Hold fabric end with left hand and guide other end with right hand,
Hold the edge of fabric slightly with right hand and guide fabric with left hand.
*Round corner sewing
Guide fabric from inside. outside to
m
* TOP STITCHING ENCLOSED SEAMS
-Top stitching enclosed seams
1 Turn fabric inside out and stitch as marked. All other seam allowance layers should be trimmed slightly narrower.
2
Start the machine, checking the seamrine
3. At the begining and end of the seams, tie knots at the inside of fabrics
Notch on the curved
Sseams,
/
I
·
e
0.2 cm
Seam line
Ito
2-
fabrics surface outside and press
with the iron.
5Turn
56
D
How to Stitch Over Awkward Areas
*Stitching on the collar
1. Attach thread loop at the edge of collar by 5 cm (2 inches) 2. Pull this loop towards back of machine, insert the work under the foot, taking care at tipof collar does not fall in the needle hole
*Starting with thick materials
Insert the same thickness of fabric at the back of foot and guide your work under the toe of foot, pulling both threads backwards.
*Stitching over the hurdle
Stitch as illustrated.
2
cmm
Needle drop
57
O
2
m
57I
E
Stitching thin materials l Baste along the seam edge
2
Apply thin paper underthe fabrics and suitch together.
*Stitching with big seam allowance
Prepare seam-edge-using cardboard and sew along with this edge. This helps to obtain seam line and prevents fabric slippage.
Car$b Cajrdbo"\d
58
MEMORY LI MMOR
nIii
ZZAS (transparent)
LiTAFFETAQ[ýSYN= r,
Q"Aomtc
FLANO
S15C4D10
COTO
4ULK·s,
mn(mf]'-Mom E 4
14
This machine can sew 100 patterns by programming pattern numbers.
*Memory Stitch
NO. 00 - 99
A
one. Approx. 40 patterns can be combinated
Patterns from 00 to 46 green can sew patterns one by
Stitch length and width can not be adjusted. ·Change the pattern indicator panel as shown. NoteP *When changing the pattern panel. memory patterns will be
always Chosen
-When
0
1
0
3
0
0
06
-P-ro
VOn
changing the pattern indication from utilty Stitch to memory stitch, loosen the upper thread tension slightly the other hand when changing the pattern ndicalhon from memory stitch to utility stitch tighten the upper
thread tension shghtly.
0
8
0
0
1
2
1
H
Pat rn numattem
0
* Two keys for input
*Ten
key
15 P
I
2
-S
01 2
3
4
Inputting pattern numbers * Joint key
4
Combination patterns from 00 to 46.
* Indicator panel
Indicating patterns numbers input by ten key. 59
B
Patterns from 47 to 67 yellow can not be combined Stitch length and width can not be adjusted
C
Patterns from 68 to 99 blue can not be combined, but stitch length and width is adjustable.
*
52 ria
47t
48
49.
50
516
971737
I!
5t
54
555
57
7
8
7
08A
ft
4?C
*tA5
ftL
a*ft
NI
ft.E
ftý
ajf
*
60
Example
1
Select desired patterns.
2 Check pattern number.
3
Input pattern numbers.
AND1
4Start sewing.
*Changing the pattern a
Input pattern numbers again.
Finish When inputting error is made, input again from the beginning. Note: You are requested to input two figures
61
Group A combination
1
Select desired patterns.
2 Check pattern numbers.
Finish
GOOD
t03 --14 06 ±+ + 14
G0 0 D
3
Input pattern numbers.
4
Start sewing.
+
>W'·
r· >LL
+
WC---W
+
W6
62
One point advice
Stitch length and width for patterns from 68 to 99 (blue) can
be adjusted as follows by setting stitch length and width control lever at manual C CJA
ERROR MESSAGE
"Please check instruction book."
Input correct two figures again
"Memory capacity full. Please check instruciton book."
-,
!
r
r.
.......
..
When combining 47 patterns of group A, over 40 patterns can be combined and numbers of pattern are depending on the stitch numbers of monograms and figures among group A.
N. 88
-This pattern combination Is not acceptable. Refer to Instruction book.'
Patterns of group B and C can not be combined * When you start sewing without inputting pattern numbers machine sews former pattern numbers * Memorized data will be kept for a whole day at least even if machine is switched off However the straight stitch will be automatically selected after the memory keeping Itme.
N. 71
N. 92
'When the shape of patterns becomes wrong, it is required to adjust the stitch length fine adjustment dial (see page 4) as shown below CORRECT PATTERN 1 When each pattern comes close 2 When each pattern comes apart
ADJUSTMENT
rZ
63
..... w --:ý................................. mm...... .. wIw nm ...............
6
.................i .... ........... I············································································· iiiiiiiiiiiiiii............................
·
* When designing your own patterns, please refer to the memory patterns.
Basic sewing movement!
...HMHMM- LMH. MHMMM ......
SImHM
your own patterns *Patterns should give continuous sewing . patterns *,Maximum length is 7 mm ,
UseDesigning *,When wishing to sew thick lines ...
*Sewing patterns with satin stitch.
V
I
SEW CONTINUOUS STITCHES Stitch width should be the same at the beginning and the end of patterns.
7
lik rip stec__ Ust_l_,_e
For example
For example
aten t hrg t
7mm
*
V *Patterns should have distance between them as shown below.
Pattern distance
*Patterns should start from the left to the right,
to I
I Pattern length
66
1
The machine will memorize various patterns shpbY inputitefdata (numbers) and not by pattern
shape itse[llf.i·
1-
2
Use program sheet in order to put pattern shape into numbers.!
. ... .atter.sn-a.t IIIILILI· I
-)
0,
00,
ZIGZAG
-
...important patternsI
hesith ent i vr
for finishing
beautifully
00, 03
(transparent)
m]
·
i5i05l :· [] ] [ II [] ]of t > II I 1I ] I [I I ] ]{l·
stitches the noe l o e ment isbew e 2-
O0
.. oLength Yourpaternswil be Yo.r patter.s lsomemoize by
05
10
15
20
_
frme1
_I
Horizontal (length) umbrsThe size of ... 0.4 mm. the program sheet is one frame .... be.lsom of
Width........0.5 mm
* Design patterns
in order,
1
Design patterns on the
program sheet.
Fo eamleThe
2
Take a distance between each patterns.
3 Put the point as below at the crossing
where the needle points.
movable range of the needle within 6I
" The point number should he within 50
00o
05
ID
15
20
25
30 H
00
5
10
IS
20
25
30
35
40
H
5051
H
67
6H
4
According to the pattern shape, in-put stitch number.
5
Mark the point on data sheet.
How to read the point 05
I.
-
03' V-0,
.H
S107 4 2sT12 -3 5 6 7 T18 Tt9 H 00 04 08 12 1ý 19 20 19 16 12 6 1314 +040 V 00 0000 00101 07 10 134
02
H
0600030,14
1812
0V41
110 07 0°4 0°10
00 0
00·
00 01 02 03
4 05 06
07
8 09
11
1142
10
p d a10106l 0 add
1
~ ~
o
IIEq
01
VertialdataOOOO
00005 10
15
20
3 01
Horizontal data
68
o
ost·Indication
*
panel (LED iniainU
Press
pattern
selection
o
button as illustrated right and check LED sign of "prog" is
s (Panel)
input verticoal data. Indicate stitch numbers
Starkeynd I End key START END
S
Ot Start input
1 e Iitkey
End input ·
Input preceding data.
Si1
23
4
56
7
8910I
·,
*Ten key
~~H
· · · ·
S
'i·· 000 00 00 01 O0
00 04 081216 1920 1916 12 04 07 10o13j14j 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 10 06 03 02 03 06 10114 18 22
Key for data input
H
1
Push start key.
oWn.2
V 14 13 10 07 04 01
00100 00 00
Input data with ten key.
H.Hnu oizna aa
.HmI
Note: H
Input data verticalon from horizontal
H
to
Horizontal data
Vertical data
Horizontal data
Vertical data
59
.. ................................ .. . . ........... ...... .. ................................................................................................................................................................................................. SAG
E
ERROR MESSAGE
"Please check Instruction book. *When inputting horizontal data frames for the movable range of data exceeds 6 the needle. *When inputting Vertical data Vertical data exceeds 14 frames for the movable range of the needle "Memory capacity full. Please check instruction book."
When setting stitch length and width lever by adjusting them, various shapes of patterns can be sewn. Zigzag width control lever
* -
c
o~o © Q©Horizontal
-
4 to the left
Stitch length control lever.
I0 K0J )J0 0 otothe left 4 te
rnnr > K ~ -Th
0J 0
I
<
C >Stitch
number exceeds 50 stitches.
*SWhen you start sewing without inputting pattern numbers, machine will sew former pattern numbers.
to the right
I
I.AN
I
2push
31Push end
key.
4 Start sewing.
* When
inputting wrong data, Start key, and start Inputting from the beginning.
Finish
Horizontal data
L2JJLoJJ
-Sew
LPJ
lP
""
test
stitches before start
sewing.
70
Vertical data
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